Patek Philippe Calatrava, 3796, White Gold

This Patek Philippe 3796, sold in 1991, traces it story back to the ref. 96, a watch that was first produced back in 1932. The famed Geneva house, badly impacted by the severe economic headwinds that were ravaging the era, had been given a lifeline in the form of new ownership under brothers Charles and Henri Stern. Their solution for rescuing the heritage brand was a wholesale rethinking not just of the business strategy but of the style of watchmaking Patek Philippe was known for. Almost no one wanted to be seen wearing timepieces with ornate, precious metal cases in the middle of a catastrophic economic downturn.

The solution was the reference 96, a time-only watch designed by David Penney, and almost Bauhausian in its simplicity. It featured a slim, round case; a flat bezel; and simple, flat lugs that originated from the mid-case and gently curved down. The seemingly simple formula would be widely credited with turning Patek Philippe’s fortunes around. It would become the very blueprint for dress watches that came after, taking on the moniker Calatrava, the term often standing in for this refined style of watchmaking.

In the 90 years since, the brand has experimented with this basic formula to varying degrees, sometimes even expanding on the design vernacular governing it. However, the Patek Philippe reference 3796 remains one of the most faithful executions of the language of the reference 96.
This “neo-vintage” example is particularly interesting. Supported by a Certificate of Origin from the brand, it is the only example we have seen of the reference 3796 with a 30mm white gold case and rose gold hands, numerals as well as crown.

The three-part case is classical in its execution. The flat, high-polished bezel sits atop a mid-case that is brush-finished. The lugs rising out of the mid-case, are polished on the top and brushed on the side, giving the watch a harmonious appearance, irrespective of the angle it is viewed from. The signed crown is also forged from rose gold. The lugs, 17mm apart, feature drilled-through lugs and the watch comes on a grey crocodile leather strap with a white gold buckle from the brand. The closed caseback wears brushed finishing, interrupted only by the engraved precious metal hallmarks.  
The dial is definitely the point of interest, and possible uniqueness. The rose gold, crisply faceted hour markers constantly play with light. In between them runs a track of rose gold minute plots, with the ones corresponding with the hour marker of a slightly heavier weight. The rose gold, dauphine hands are also faceted. At 6 o’clock lies the subsidiary seconds, with simple black markers and a leaf-style seconds hand.

Powering it is the manual-wind calibre 215, with a straight-line lever escapement, Gyromax balance, and 18 jewels. The movement wears the Geneva seal.

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Calatrava 3796 is in excellent condition overall. The case and lugs show light superficial marks throughout, with a very light graze on the bezel between the ten and eleven o'clock position. The case proportions are strong and sharp, with crisp and defined hallmarks on the brushed caseback.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year, limited warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.