Patek Philippe World Time, Ref. 5131G-010, White Gold

In 1959, Patek Philippe obtained a patent for Louis Cottier's world time complication, with the manufacture since having become synonymous with the complication. In 1953, they released the reference 2523, which has since come to be cemented as one of the manufacturer’s most iconic models. Almost 60 years later, the 5131G carries this legacy forwards.

The cloisonné enamel is the distinguishing feature of this piece. The 5131G differs from the 5130G in this regard, as the latter has a purely monochromatic dial. Twenty-four cities are displayed on the outer edge of the dial, in an italicised font, with the signatures "Patek Philippe" and "Genève" engraved on the bezel. Requiring meticulous attention to detail to craft using cloisonné enamel, this World Time is limited by Patek Philippe’s available supply of these specialist dials - with only a small number produced each year. In this example, the enamel shows an array of vibrant tones, finely outlined in yellow gold. One could argue that compared to its predecessor, this 5131G is a more faithful recreation of the original Cottier watches, thanks to its enamelled centre.

The oversized Observatoire-style hands are reminiscent of Patek Philippe's great world time watches from the past, also providing enhanced legibility against the colourful centre portion of the dial. At 39.5mm in diameter, the case of the 5131G is both contemporary and classic in its design. Its rounded shape, from its curved crown guards to its elongated lugs, lend fluidity and elegance to the watch. Polished throughout, the white gold case complements the ornate design of the dial. The pusher on the left side of the case is used to advance the hour hand forward in one-hour increments to set the local time when one is travelling. A truly functional complication, which may still prove useful today.

Closer look

This Patek Philippe World Time 5131G is in very good condition. Superficial marks can be seen throughout the case and lugs, consistent with minimal wear. The hallmarks and engravings on the case back are crisp and well defined.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.