While the Nautilus demonstrated that Patek Philippe could break away from the classic lines and metals that characterised the brand, the Aquanaut took it a step further by combining two unusual materials: a stainless-steel case and a rubber strap. Furthermore, the instantly recognisable checkerboard dial, with a texture reminiscent of a hand grenade, is another fundamental aspect of the dial that stands apart from the manufacturer’s more traditional designs.
Launched in 2012, this modern Aquanaut Travel Time reference 5164A-001 further develops the signature design of the piece, and was the first complicated Aquanaut to be released. The piece includes a date-ring at 6 o'clock while ensuring the rest of the dial stays balanced. A second timezone has also been added, combining this exceedingly practical function with the sporty, archetypal style of the watch.
The checkerboard pattern of the dial has been modified slightly to account for the date dial and the addition of 'Local' and 'Home' day/night indicators, which are symmetrically placed on either side of the dial, just slightly askew of the 9 and 3 o'clock index markers. The second timezone is indicated through a hollowed out fourth hand, a skeletonised version of the hour hand, which is rendered completely in white. Applied numerals in white gold are filled with luminous material, further adding to the watch's classic style.
The watch is powered by the calibre 324 SC FUS, which is based off the calibre 324 SC, with an added module. The 324 SC can also be found within the 5711 Nautilus. When viewed through the sapphire caseback, the movement is beautifully decorated with Geneva stripes across the rotor, and bears the Patek Philippe Seal.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Aquanaut will be subject to 20% VAT