Patek Philippe Saatchi Edition Chronograph, 5070J-012, Yellow Gold

Inspired by the Reference 2512, a unique split-second chronograph Patek Philippe created in the early 1950s, the Reference 5070 was the brand’s first production piece to feature a case that was larger than 40 mm. Originally released in 1998, the 5070 was also the first chronograph since the Reference 1463 to not feature a calendar complication as well. It was also one of the last to be powered by the calibre CH 27-70, based on the Lemania 2310 ebauche. The reference was originally debuted exclusively in yellow gold before later being offered in other metals.

For its 2015 Grand Exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in London, Patek Philippe presented a series of discontinued references, utilising unused movements and cases from series production. They came with dial variations not seen in the original collection and were produced in very limited numbers.

This Saatchi Edition 5070J-012 was part of this release and is understood to be one of five produced in the limited series. Within the four references of the 5070 released as part of this exhibition, the 5070J-012 – which pairs a chocolate sunburst dial with an attractive yellow gold case – is one of the most coveted.

The 42mm case is replete with cues from the Reference 2512. The bezel has a stepped detail, with a flat part giving way to a raised portion that meets the crystal; this form is also echoed on the simple, screwed on display caseback. This serves to minimise the 11.6mm case profile. The subtly rounded midcase is home to square chronograph pushers. The long lugs feature a stepped detail that is as faithful to classicality as it is visually consistent with the form of the bezel and caseback. The lugs curve down sharply, terminating in flat ends that are well suited to wrist ergonomics. Engravings detailing the brand mark and precious metal hallmarks are reserved for the back of the lugs.

The dial layout faithfully follows the double register layout of storied chronographs from Patek Philippe’s past catalogue. The tachymeter scale is printed in off-white for maximum visibility against the rich, earthy tone of the dial. Following this is a chapter of applied gold Arabic hours; even the ones interrupted by the chronograph registers are detailed richly. The subsidiary registers – one with running seconds and the other registering 30 minutes of elapsed time – feature chemin de fer scales with Arabic numerals. They feature circular engine turning to visually differentiate them from the sunburst on the rest of the dial. The leaf-style gold hours and minutes hands are finely curved and finished, with this style extended to the hands plying the subsidiary registers. The central chronograph seconds hand features a wide counterbalance that progressively narrows to a fine tip for precise reading on the tachymeter scale.

Visible through the caseback is the manually wound calibre CH 27-70, based on the legendary Lemania calibre 2310 ebauche. Mechanically robust, the movement is also decorated to the standard required for the Geneve seal, which this example bears. This of course also helps date the new-old-stock movement since the brand transitioned to the Patek Philippe seal after 2009. The bridges feature Côtes de Genève with the bevelled edges wearing mirrored anglage. The countersinks for the jewels and screws are also mirror polished. The movement uses a monometallic Gyromax balance wheel that beats at 18,000 A/h interacting with a straight-line lever escapement. The single barrel offers 60 hours of reserve when fully wound.

This Patek Philippe 5070J comes on its black alligator strap secured by a yellow gold deployant clasp. The watch, which is fresh like when it was first sold, comes with its full set of boxes, instruction and warranty paperwork. This iteration of this now historic reference is elevated by the combination of a warm, precious metal case and a rich chocolate dial.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Saatchi Edition Chronograph will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Saatchi Edition Chronograph 5070J-012 is in excellent overall condition, likely worn on a handful of occasions, if at all. The case and lugs remain unpolished and show virtually no signs of wear, with the stepped bezel and lugs being sharp and well-defined. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. On the caseback and buckle, the hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.