Breguet Chronograph, 3237, White Gold

The rebirth of Breguet began in 1970, when brothers Jacques and Pierre Chaumet took over in the hopes of reinvigorating the brand and renewing the connection between the Breguet name and high-end watchmaking. Shortly thereafter, the brothers closed the French factory and moved production to the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, the epicentre of Swiss watchmaking.

In order to restore the brand to its former glory, Jacques and Pierre would need a Master Watchmaker to help. They approached Daniel Roth, who’d demonstrated his talent over seven years working at Audemars Piguet, which he’d joined as the only watchmaker who didn’t come from Le Brassus, the brand’s historic home. Inspired by the work of the famous watchmaker, Roth agreed to help resuscitate the manufacture, though only after going back to school to further study Breguet’s archives and techniques.

The chronograph reference 3237 was one of the earliest pieces introduced, and was powered by the Lemania 2310 ébauche, a well-known calibre used by Patek Philippe and Roger Dubuis, among others. At the time the piece was produced, Breguet actually owned the Nouvelle Lemania manufacture, which they had purchased in 1991. Aesthetically, the calibre is finished to a very high standard. It features chamfering on all angles, polishing and decoration.

This reference 3237 is encased in white gold, a rare iteration of the reference, which is more usually seen in yellow gold. The chronograph is in the style of a two-register chronograph, with a sharply executed guilloché hobnail pattern in the centre and silvered brushed chapter ring with printed numerals. This particular dial features an even patination throughout. In keeping with the traditional style they were trying to emulate, two cartouches are placed at 12 and 6 o’clock, featuring the maker’s name, Breguet, as well as the number of the watch respectively. Overall, the watch features many design cues that were cemented while Daniel Roth worked there, such as the engine-turned dials, coin-edged case, and distinctive blued Breguet hands.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Breguet Chronograph will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Breguet Chronograph 3237 is in excellent overall condition. Light superficial marks are found on the case and lugs, though only on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement show no signs of imperfections. On the coin-edge midcase, the hallmarks are crisp and well defined, as are the engravings on the caseback and buckle.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by Breguet in May 2024 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from  A Collected Man.