To those familiar with the grenade-patterned dial or rubber strap of the Aquanaut, the white dial and Roman numerals found on this piece may seem discordant at first, especially when paired with the porthole-shaped case and date aperture. What this piece represents is a period of experimentation from Patek Philippe, when they were trying to launch a new model, inspired by the Nautilus, though designed fully in-house. The result was the reference 5060, which was at first included in the Nautilus collection, and then became the foundation of the stand-alone Aquanaut collection.

During this period, Patek Philippe referred to the first 5060A (the steel variant) as both a Nautilus and an Aquanaut, making it rather confusing to understand when they themselves started making the distinction. For example, a Patek Philippe catalogue from 1997 shows that both the 5060A and 5060J (the “J” representing “jaune”, or yellow gold) were sold as part of the Nautilus collection. Meanwhile, an instruction manual for a 5060A, printed in Switzerland in October 1997, clearly categorises it as an Aquanaut. Little is known or documented about the 5060SR, although its similarity to the 5060J, except in a different configuration of metals and dial colours, highlights the exploratory nature across all the variants of the reference 5060.

The white dial and rose gold case on this example are particularly adventurous when you consider what the Aquanaut would eventually become, while the lume-filled Roman numerals and hands hint towards the transition between the two models, as Patek Philippe produced some Nautilus pieces with a similar design. It's also interesting to note that Patek Philippe continued with yellow gold cased Aquanauts for some time after, in the Reference 5065, before removing it in favour of rose gold for the Reference 5167 until the present day. This 5060SR, therefore, presents an intriguing combination of characteristics, embodying a period of experimentation and reinvention for Patek Philippe.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Aquanaut will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5060SR is in excellent condition throughout. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear. The watch has very likely never been worn. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfection. The hallmarks and engravings on the reverse of the lugs are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.