Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time, Gübelin 150th Anniversary, 5134G, White Gold

This Patek Philippe Calatrava 5134G pays tribute to two noteworthy aspects of the manufacture's history: their strong ties to retailers that have resulted in the fascinating and rare "double-signature" pieces so coveted by collectors, and the travel time complication, which is a product of a distinct era of travel and rapid expansion. This specific example was made in honour of the Swiss-based retailer Gübelin's 150th anniversary, and only 50 pieces were produced. Gübelin is one of the oldest watch retailers in Europe, having operated since 1854. Historically, they shared a close relationship with Patek Philippe, having printed their name on the dial of some of the manufacture’s most sought-after models.
 
Patek Philippe introduced the first Travel Time watch, the reference 2597, in 1958. This was designed by Louis Cottier, who had also been responsible for designing the complication that would go on to power the Patek Philippe World Timer watches nearly 30 years earlier. The reference 2597 simplified the complicated dial of the World Timer, only allowing for two timezones, but with a mechanism that would allow the hour hand to instantly jump backwards or forwards through two pushers in the case. The Travel Time has taken on several iterations through the years and has been integrated into other lines, such as the Aquanaut Travel Time or the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, and even the 6300 Grandmaster Chime.
 
As a whole, this reference 5134G is a distinctly modern addition to the family, with a sleek 37mm case and tapered lugs that give the watch a slim look overall. As a tribute to the double-signed pieces of the past, both "Gübelin" and "Patek Philippe Genéve" are printed on the dial, symmetrically placed at 9 and 3 o'clock, also in a slightly different configuration from past examples, which would usually place the signatures at the top and bottom of the dial.
 
Additionally, on the deep grey dial, we see that the 5134G has three hands – two hour hands and one minute hand. One is a jumping hour hand that can be set via the pushers on the left side of the case, while the other is just set normally through the crown. If having a dual-timezone reading is unnecessary, then the jumping hour hand can snap to the regular hour hand, acting as a single hand. The hour markers on the watch are in the style of slim batons, angled to catch the light and give the watch a more dynamic appearance. A 24-hour sub-dial and sub-seconds are placed on a slightly darker grey inner section at 12 and 6 o'clock, respectively, both making use of Arabic numeral markers.
 
Turning the watch over reveals the movement, which can be seen through the sapphire caseback. The 5134G is powered by the calibre 215 PS FUS 24H, which features 18 jewels, has a four-arm Gyromax balance beating at 28,800 oscillations per hour, and bears the Patek Philippe seal, which can be found on watches produced after 2009. The movement is engraved with "Patek Philippe Geneve," as well as several other movement details. On the glass is printed "Gübelin, 1854–2004," a further tribute to the retailer's long history and 150th year.

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks, though only on the very surface of the material, consistent with minimal wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfection. The hallmarks on the reverse of the lugs are crisp and well defined. 

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.