An elegant piece that has found itself in high demand from collectors in recent years, the reference 3940 is perhaps the most iconic perpetual calendar of the modern era. The design focuses on balance, with its three registers showing various functions neatly balanced out. The sub-dial at three o'clock shows the leap-year counter and the months (in English), in a slightly recessed sub-register, giving depth to the otherwise lightly brushed, silver dial. In a similar fashion, the months and day/night indicators are placed at nine o'clock. The stunning gold moon-phase is found at six o'clock, with the days of the month surrounding.

This particular example is marked by a key hallmark that dates it as an early second series example, produced in February of 1988 (as evidenced by the code on the certificate of sale). It features slightly recessed registers that followed the first series with deep, sunken sub-dials. Additionally, the cross division present on the month sub-dial in later examples is absent here, with the month sub-dial mirroring the day sub-dial more closely. Examples of the reference 3940 with this type of dial are typically only found in pieces made fairly early on in production, and it would seem much fewer were made than later series. Furthermore, closer to the crown, a v-shape indent can be found close to the case, a subtle feature only found in pieces from the first and early second series.

The dauphine hands add a touch of sharpness to what only can be described as a beautifully executed dial. Evidence suggests that the 3940 dials were produced by Stern Frères, who provided many to Patek Philippe during this period. Many of the characteristics associated with a second series example, including the early serif font on the sub-dials and the "σ SWISS σ" printed below the outer minute track, can be found on this model.

Rather unusually, this example is also accompanied by an Ellipse-style clasp. While such clasps are not usually paired with the 3940, they are entirely accurate to the period, and speak to the original owner's personal taste, and of a time when boutiques were more accommodating toward small requests such as these. The presence of an Ellipse clasp, when combined with the relatively early series of this 3940, is a rare combination for any collector looking for something slightly different.

Representing the best of Swiss design, the movement itself is no less a technical feat. This example has a solid case back, which conceals the fantastic hand-finishing, including Côtes de Genève, with its quality guaranteed by the Genevan Seal. The ultra-thin self-winding movement, powered by an off-centre 22k gold micro-rotor, has been in use by Patek Philippe since the 1970s, and has been incorporated into a number of their modern perpetual lines.

Created at the turn of the century, this watch is an excellent example of the neo-vintage movement, marking an exciting period of rebirth for the watch industry. At 36mm, the watch is a size that is reminiscent of vintage Patek Philippe references, further adding to its charm. Overall, the watch retains its crisp hallmarks and case proportions. The watch was purchased by the original owner in Hong Kong in 1988 and includes a copy of the original bill of sale, as well as the Certificate of Origin.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 3940 is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks throughout, specifically on the side of the lower left lug, though only on the surface of the material. The dial and hands have been very well preserved for the age of the watch, with the 24-hour indicator ageing to an attractive warm hue. The hallmarks on the left side of the case are extremely crisp and well defined, as well as on the ellipse-stye deployant clasp. Additionally, the caseback features its original "Automatic" sticker.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.