While the Nautilus marked Patek Philippe’s departure from the traditionality it was known for, the Aquanaut was an even bolder step in that direction, combining a stainless-steel case with a geosphere motif dial and rubber strap. The Aquanaut Travel Time reference 5164A-001, revealed in 2012, elegantly incorporated a useful complication to this recipe, in a first for the sports-inspired line.
The 40.8mm stainless-steel case, that features alternating brushed and polished surfaces, has two pushers rising from its midcase that can be used to advance or move the main hour hand back in one-hour jumps. This is so the wearer can quickly set the local time on arrival at a new destination. Corresponding to this local time zone is a blue and white day- and night-time indicator, located between 8 and 9 o’clock. The winglet-style pushers find their visual counterpart in the flared midcase that houses the signed crown, giving the case a balanced countenance.
A second hour hand, devoid of luminous material and hollowed out for visual distinction, tracks a second, home time zone. This hand can be manipulated using the crown and features its own day and night indicator between 3 and 4 o’clock. The dial can be simplified when the wearer isn’t travelling by overlapping home and local times, thereby giving the appearance of a simple three-hand watch face. In addition, the reference 5164A-001 features a useful subsidiary pointer date at 6 o’clock. The dial furniture, including the Arabic numerals and the hands are crafted from white gold. The hour hand that tracks home time is treated entirely in white, again to the aid of time-reading. Around the Arabic indices runs a chapter of printed minutes with broad hour markers filled with luminous material.
The watch is powered by the calibre 324 SC FUS, which is based off the calibre 324 SC, with an added module. The 324 SC can also be found within the 5711 Nautilus. Viewed through the sapphire caseback the movement is beautifully decorated with Geneva stripes across the rotor, topped with the engraved Calatrava cross. The movement bears the Patek Philippe seal.
The geosphere motif is echoed in the black uncut strap that culminates in a double deployant clasp. The clasp is beautiful in its simplicity – instead of employing complex mechanics, it deploys when the wearer applies pressure on two points in its S-shaped architecture.
The watch comes with its full set of paperwork and box.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time will be subject to 20% VAT