PATEK PHILIPPE

PATEK PHILIPPE

    Patek Philippe

    Patek Philippe’s history is one of the richest and most consequential in the context of modern watchmaking. Tracing its story back to 1839, it has remained a family-run concern, going from the hands of founders Antoine Patek and Adrien Philippe and their progeny to the Stern family, who have shepherded the heritage brand ever since the first half of the 20th century. While over the years the brand has earned its reputation for extreme mechanical complexity – with notable pieces such as the Henry Graves Supercomplication – its innovations range from perpetual calendar chronographs to travel time pieces as well as stainless steel sports-inspired watches.

    Even as the Swiss watchmaking industry has been shaped by the forces that have buffeted it over the course of the last century, Patek Philippe has resolutely stayed its course. That is not to say the brand has not kept with the times. However, its offering remains moored to mechanical innovation and craft with pieces produced in sparing numbers.

    Every watch that bears the Patek Philippe mark – from the exceedingly opulent to the simplest and from the serially produced to unique examples – benefits from one of the proudest legacies in watchmaking. That the brand has prospered while always remaining family-owned is also noteworthy.

    Any conversation about references that best represent Patek Philippe’s philosophy must include the 3970, 5970, 52790 and 5004, some of its best loved perpetual calendar chronographs. Our preference for complicated Patek Philippe also includes the classical forms of the reference 3940 and 5550 as well as minute repeaters such as the reference 3979. We are equally charmed by the ruggedness of the Aquanaut 5065 and midsize Nautilus references such as the 3800.

    The Designs

    Doubly complicated

    Powered by the calibre CH27, which is based on the Lemania 2310, it had to be deftly adapted to accommodate the split seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar complications. The co-axially mounted chronograph hands required an extra-long pinion as well as an isolator to prevent rattrapante drag.

    Rarest metal

    Produced between 1996 and 2012, the reference 5004 was seen most often in yellow gold, with examples also in rose gold, platinum and stainless steel. However, the most elusive remain those made in white gold like this example.

    An illustrious family of references

    No other complication perhaps better represents Patek Philippe than the perpetual calendar chronograph. The reference 5004 is one of a proud line that started with the reference 1518 and continued with the reference 2499 and 3970. In fact, it inherits several cues both in dial layout and case shape from the hallowed references that came before it.

    Iconic reference

    The Nautilus reference 3800 was the first reimaging of the larger original reference 3700, designed by Gerald Genta. The proportions of the reference 3800 were not just better suited to the tastes of the early 1980s when it was released, but its more compact form lended itself better to a host of precious metals.

    Dial

    Aside from several desirable details – such as the ridged dial that has turned a brilliant shade of blue-green, the black date window and the sigma markers that reference the precious metal of the hands and the unusual diamond indices – this dial is double signed. It wears the coveted mark of the retailer Beyer Chronometrie of Zurich.

    Case

    While the reference 3700 was imagined in stainless steel, the reference 3800’s proportions lend themselves just as well to precious metals such as the yellow gold on this particular example. Together with a gold bracelet, with thinner than usual links, and a white gold deployant clasp, it is a distinctive exaction of the Nautilus aesthetic.

    The complication

    The classical countenance of the porcelain dial and Roman numerals belies one of watchmaking’s hallowed complications. The slider, tidily integrated in the left flank of the midcase, engages the two hammers in the movement, causing them to strike a gong to express the time in auditorily.

    Case

    As is the case with some of the earliest pieces of the reference 3979, the case was crafted by the hands of specialist maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann. His fame is in significant part due to the superior acoustics of the cases he created for Patek Philippe minute repeaters. The maker’s JPH mark is stamped on the inside of the solid caseback.

    View of the calibre

    The watch is unusual in that it comes with both an exhibition style and closed casebacks. This offers a view not just of the beautifully decorated calibre R27 PS but also of the twin hammers responsible for the sonnerie function.
    Read interviews and articles at A Collected Man | Buy & Sell rare watches at A Collected Man Read interviews and articles at A Collected Man | Buy & Sell rare watches at A Collected Man
    View Journal

    Articles

    View Journal
    History Interview Guide
    Borgel – The Master Casemaker You Haven’t Heard Of

    Borgel – The Master Casemaker You Haven’t Heard Of

    By Tony Traina
    July 2021 • 7 Min Read
    The most unusual Patek Philippe case designs of the past 100 years

    The most unusual Patek Philippe case designs of the past 100 years

    By Russell Sheldrake
    June 2020 • 24 Min Read
    Casemaking with Jean-Pierre Hagmann

    Casemaking with Jean-Pierre Hagmann

    By A Collected Man
    December 2019 • 8 Min Read
    Read A Collector's Guide: The Patek Philippe 3940 | Articles & Interviews A Collected Man

    A Collector's Guide: The Patek Philippe 3940

    By Russell Sheldrake
    April 2020 • 22 Min Read
    Rare and unusual – the story of the Patek Philippe Calatrava

    A Visual Guide to Rare Patek Philippe Calatravas

    By Raj Aditya Chaudhuri
    August 2022 • 10 Min Read

    Patek Philippe at A Collected Man

    Highlights

    Most Recent

    buy Patek Philippe Minute Repeater 3979J Yellow Gold preowned watch at A Collected Man London
    buy Patek Philippe Minute Repeater 3979J Yellow Gold preowned watch at A Collected Man London
    Patek Philippe Minute Repeater, 3979J, Yellow Gold Sold
    Front Dial | Patek Philippe 5935A-001 | World Time | Flyback Chronograph | Stainless Steel | Available worldwide at A Collected Man
    On Wrist | Patek Philippe 5935A-001 | World Time | Flyback Chronograph | Stainless Steel | Available worldwide at A Collected Man
    Patek Philippe 5935A-001, World Time, Flyback Chronograph, Stainless Steel Sold
    Aquanaut 5066A | Steel
    Aquanaut 5066A | Steel
    Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5066A, Steel Sold
    3970EP | Semi-gloss Dial | Platinum
    3970EP | Semi-gloss Dial | Platinum
    Patek Philippe 3970EP, Semi-gloss Dial, Platinum Sold
    Nautilus 3700/001 | "Jumbo" | Steel
    Nautilus 3700/001 | "Jumbo" | Steel
    Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/001, "Jumbo", Steel Sold

    SELL YOUR PATEK PHILIPPE WATCH

    A Collected Man is the leading online platform for discovering, buying and selling the world’s most exceptional watches. Whether you are an experienced collector or a first-time seller, our team of in-house experts will be able to advise you on the best available options to sell your Patek Philippe watch.

    Sell Your Watch

    DISCOVER OUR BRANDS

    Buy & Sell Cartier Watches | A Collected Man Buy & Sell Rare watches

    CARTIER

    Learn More
    Buy & Sell Roger Smith Watches | A Collected Man Buy & Sell Rare watches

    ROGER W. SMITH

    Learn More
    Discover Voutilainen brand history | Buy & Sell Voutilainen rare watches

    VOUTILAINEN

    Learn More