Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater, Yellow Gold

Raised in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Franck Muller enrolled himself in the Geneva Watchmaking School at the age of 15. He followed this with a career in restoration, working with collectors and auction houses, building up a reputation for complications. This led to one of his most formative experiences maintaining and restoring watches in the Patek Philippe Collection, many of which sit in the Patek Philippe Museum today.

In 1984, Muller put together his mechanical and design abilities to create the first tourbillon wristwatch, with the regulating device displayed on the dial side. This was a novelty in an era in which complicated watchmaking had been falling out of favour for some time. Later, in 1991 he would launch his eponymous brand, styling himself the "Master of Complications".

In the intervening years, Muller created a small number of complicated watches that included minute repeaters as well as double-face chronographs. These pieces were distinct because they bore just the maker’s first name on the dial, and while Muller's work is often characterised by his experimental dials and tonneau-shaped cases, these Franck Genève pieces were exceedingly classical and underpinned by vintage ebauche calibres. They were also distinct because they featured cases by master Jean-Pierre Hagmann. 

This perpetual calendar minute repeater bears many of these qualities. It includes a combination of the most feted of classic complications cased in yellow gold by the hands of Hagmann in 1987. Of only a small handful of examples from this era, with this combination of complications have come to market. This particular piece is one of the earlier ones we have seen.

Measuring 36mm across, the case is constructed in three parts. The bezel is rounded with gadroon-like steps and meets the fluted midcase in a lip. A similar lip, with a dip to accommodate the crown, paves the way to the closed caseback adorned with circular brushing. Here, engraved by hand, are details such as the brand mark, complications as well as the year in which the watch was created. Inside the caseback is etched the familiar JHP mark of the casemaker. The crown is well proportioned and fluted. The slider, whose motion sees it running the length of the left flank of the case, is smooth to the touch and offers satisfying feeback.

The lugs, issuing from the midcase, are thin when viewed up top, with their robust structure visible only in profile. The top right and bottom left lugs wear precious metal hallmarks. The correctors for the perpetual calendar are minimal and well-integrated into the midcase. The 18mm lug width is plied by a cognac tone, large grained leather strap secured by a solid gold pin buckle.   

The dial wears a variety of patterns of engine turning – on the outer most reaches is a rim of vieux panier with a diamond Clous de Paris reserved for the central portion. The perpetual calendar registers wear décor flamme-style turning. A thin brushed chapter of black minute plots is followed by one of Roman hours. Each chapter, and the edges of the perpetual calendar registers, are delineated with sauté piqué rims. At 12 o’clock is the month indicator, with an integrated leap-year display; at 3 lies the date complication; 6 o’clock is home to the partially obscured moonphase; while at 9 lies the day display. The moonphase register also includes a raise plaque with the Franck Geneve mark. Consistent to the classical appearance, the hours and minutes hands are Breguet-style while the other displays are plied by simple pointers. All hands are heat blued.

While sheathed in a solid caseback, the manually wound calibre is finely finished. Its twin gongs produce a distinct and pleasing sonnerie, owing in no small part to the fine acoustics of Hagmann’s case. It is a lever escapement movement with 32 jewels.

This example from one of the earliest protagonists of the story of independent watchmaking is indeed special owing to a multitude of factors. It represent the classical basis that Franck Muller created from, in its purest form. That it also references the direction Breguet had taken under the stewardship of Daniel Roth also speaks to the moment in time this watch was made in. The storied classical complications it integrates, in a case by the best casemaker of the modern era, makes this piece all the more compelling.  

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater is in good overall condition. The case is well defined and appears unpolished with crisp hallmarks to the sides of the lugs. The dial shows signs of age as do the blued hands. On the caseback and buckle, the hallmarks and engravings are too well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.