Introduced around 2000, just four years into the brand’s story, the Toric Tourbillon was Parmigiani Fleurier’s first attempt at the complex yet classical regulating device, long viewed as a rite of passage for fledgling independents. For its first outing, brand’s Toric collection was judged to be most appropriate – the line is of course inspired by the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet and features a range of classic complications, alongside more inventive ones. The name references the torus, a geometric shape that is a repeating motif in several of the line's pieces. Signature visual elements included stepped and fluted bezels, a detail inspired by classical Greek and Roman Doric columns as well as the curved line of the Golden Ratio.
This is what makes this high jewellery example of the Toric Tourbillon distinct. Where you would hope to find the stepped, fluted detail is a bezel encrusted with 60 evenly sculpted baguette diamonds, framed by twin torus lips that meet the rounded, high-polished midcase. The rim of the display caseback, held by four screws, is also polished and wears engravings detailing the precious metal the case is crafted from as well as serial number. The backs of the straight, curved down lugs feature precious metal hallmarks. The fluted crown is topped with a sapphire cabochon. The 40mm platinum case has a smooth, pebble-like tactile quality to it. It is paired with dark navy saffiano leather strap secured by a platinum pin buckle with the brand’s signature fluted detail.
On the dial side, the Toric Tourbillon exposes the movement through an open-worked set up. The bridge at the top, that acts as the dial, is decorated with even and attractive Côtes de Genève. It features four screws, evenly distributed to aid visual balance. Underneath the cartouche at 12 o’clock, bearing the brand mark, is a jewel in gold chaton that is the visual counterpart of the one that anchors the tourbillon in the bottom half of the dial.
Separated by a flowing cleft, two bridges at the bottom of the dial anchor the black polished, bercé finished tourbillon bridge. The one-minute tourbillon features a three-armed carriage with the balance wheel, as well as those of the going train, wearing an aureate appearance. The bridges are finished with sharp anglage, while a partial chapter of drilled minutes frames the dial. At 6 o’clock separating the words “Swiss” and “made” on the minutes chapter are three red spade details with drilled dots in between them.
The hands, heat-hued, feature spade ends. Rather interestingly, the minute hand sits below the hour hand, a function of the calibre being an inverted version of the original Girard-Perregaux pocket watch movement from the 19th century.
In the first days of the manufacture, Parmigiani chose to rely on high-quality ébauches, which were modified, assembled, and finished in-house. This reference 2840 makes use of a Girard-Perregaux Three Bridges 9900 ébauche. Initially created for pocket watches, this movement has a historic lineage that stretches back to the 19th century, when it won first place in the 1867 and 1889 Paris World Exhibitions as well as the Neuchatêl Observatory Prize in 1911 – one of the most prestigious competitions to determine the accuracy of certain timepieces. The movement was miniaturised to wristwatch size in 1986 and presented at Baselworld five years later.
The view on the movement side, while minimal, is suitably finished with perlage on the baseplate. The irregular pentagon-shaped bridge covers a majority of the wheels of the going train, while the keyless works and the ratchet wheel and wheel of the mainspring barrel are exposed.
This example showcases the versatility of the Toric aesthetic and this tasteful, high jewellery interpretation would sit comfortably alongside a collection of more classical executions of the line.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Tourbillon will be subject to 20% VAT