The history of Roger Dubuis is rich and complex, as Dubuis started his career in the 1950s working for Longines before moving on to Patek Philippe’s complications department. From there, he went his own way, starting his workshop in the ‘80s. Later on, in 1995, Dubuis would launch his eponymous brand with the help of businessman Carlos Dias.

The first Roger Dubuis pieces were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Genevan watchmaking that Patek Philippe embodied, paired with the watchmaker's signature stylistic flair. Dubuis' attempt to emulate Patek Philippe was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking the Geneva Seal for his movements to his design of deployant buckles. The Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were designed as a tribute to the great watchmakers of old, according to Dubuis. In 2003, after only eight years, the watchmaker left his eponymous brand. Though his output in the earliest days of the brand was limited, the design and quality of the pieces he produced have stood the test of time.

This time-only piece is perhaps the purest incarnation of the Hommage concept, paring it back to its most essential components. As the name suggests, the Hommage pieces were designed as a homage to the great watchmakers of the past, according to Dubuis himself. In practice, this meant classic, vintage-leaning designs, combined with refined mechanical movements. This piece is a perfect execution of the concept, with its 37mm white gold case and subtle details.

It features a glossy white dial, with applied Breguet numerals. This style of numerals first appeared just before the French Revolution, when Abraham-Louis Breguet helped to cement the style. Since then, these cursive numerals have been used on a range of prestigious timepieces, though they've become most associated with vintage watches from Patek Philippe. The printed minute track and applied numerals complement the lacquered white surface, with the numerals and leaf-shaped hands polished to aid overall legibility.

The case is subtle and discrete, with its finely polished bezel and lugs, contrasting with a delicately brushed mid-case, a subtle nod to vintage dress watches from the past. Though this piece is fitted with a sapphire crystal, it is also accompanied by an additional closed caseback, which features fine perlage on the inside.

The watch is powered by the Calibre RD 57, based on a Lemania 8810 ébauche. One of the highest quality base automatic movements available at the time, the Lemania 8810 was also used for the brand's perpetual calendar, as well as being integrated by other watchmakers of the time, such as Daniel Roth. It also bears a Geneva seal, indicating the highest standards of movement finishing, and as indicated by the "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory, setting far more exacting standards than a test from the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC).

Closer look

Condition

This Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 570 is in very good overall condition. Light superficial marks are found on the case and lugs, more specifically on the lower right lug. The dial, hands, and movement have been well preserved. The hallmarks on the caseback and clasp are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.