Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel Skeleton, 25558/002BA, Yellow Gold

One of a family of references that descended from the original ultra-thin Quantième Perpétuel 5548, the reference 25558/002BA was first created in the 1980s, with production continuing till the middle of the 1990s. It retains the original layout designed by Jacqueline Dimier – the perpetual calendar indications are laid out in an intuitive fashion, with the day and date on the same plane at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively. The months of the year are displayed at 12 o’clock, while the moonphase indication is at 6 o’clock, with a semi-circular graduated scale for the indication.

This example wears a slim, classical yellow gold case with a pronounced stepped bezel, a horizontally satinated midcase, and a display caseback with a rim on which are engraved details of the reference, brand mark, country of origin, and serial number. As is typical of the reference, while the correctors for the annual calendar complications are located on the midcase, the caseback features prominent bulges to accommodate their circular form. The left flank also wears the crisp, precious metal hallmarks. The lugs are short and straight, gently tapering down. They are 20mm apart and wear curved lugs with a grey saffiano strap secured by a signed yellow gold pin buckle.

The dial furniture includes a cream-coloured chemin de fer minutes track with black printing. The subdials are framed by rims of the same warm shade with black printed scales. The moonphase complication is a golden disc, blued to a brilliant shade, save for the moons and the stars. Half of the register is taken up by a transparent screen on which is printed the branding in a simple, san serif font, marking this as an early production version. The hours and minutes hands are golden, while the ones plying the calendar complications are heat blued.

The watch is powered by the self-winding calibre 2120, an ultra-thin movement that was derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s famed calibre 920. The ebauche resulted from a 1967 project at Jaeger LeCoultre, that Audemars Piguet funded and contributed to. The resulting calibre 920 was adopted by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. In its golden, skeletonised iteration here, it is especially jewel-like to the eye. Visible through the sapphire caseback, almost all components have not just been skeletonised to their basic structures, but they have been further embellished by hand engraving. The solid gold rotor also gets this skeletonised treatment, creating a stylised “AP”. The rim wears a beautiful floral motif repeated remarkably consistently. On the rotor are hand etched details such as the brand mark, country of origin, jewel count, and the five positions the movement has been adjusted for.

It is understood that 217 examples of the reference 25558/002BA were produced over a decade long run, with 154 of them in yellow gold. This early example features early case design characteristics from the series, with satisfying hallmarks on the side of the case, which often appear in later examples. This watch, which comes with its original leather folio-style case as well as sale paperwork, is a veritable time capsule example of this sought after neo-vintage reference. It has also recently been serviced by Audemars Piguet and comes furnished with the requisite service paperwork.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel Skeleton will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel Skeleton is in excellent overall condition. Light superficial marks are found on the case and lugs, consistent with minimal wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been very well preserved. The unpolished case has developed a satisfyingly warm patina, particularly between the lugs on the caseback, with a pinkish hue. The large-style hallmarks and engravings throughout the caseback and on the left side of the mid-case are extremely crisp and well defined.

The watch comes with its period-correct leather folio, perpetual pusher, Certificate of Origin and Guarantee originally retailed by Wempe in Bremen, and an additional warranty card as later re-sold by Jeweller Biermann GmbH in Dortmund, Germany. The watch has also just returned from a full mechanical service with Audemars Piguet, and the case has been left untouched.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by Audemars Piguet in January 2023 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from  A Collected Man.