A descendant of the reference 5548, this reference 25668 was created nearly a decade later, and retains the typical layout as originally penned by Jacqueline Dimier in 1977. The perpetual calendar indications are laid out in an intuitive manner: the date and day are shown at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively, with the months displayed at 12 o’clock. A moonphase indication is placed at 6 o’clock, with graduations for the moon position just above.

The combination of a rose gold case with silvered sub-dials leans toward the traditional, while allowing the wearer to appreciate the openworked dial without too many distracting elements. The watch also features blued hands for the sub-dials and hands in rose-gold for the hour and minute hands. Supposedly only 205 pieces were ever made across the reference, with only 30 in rose-gold. The reference 25668 was produced between the years of 1988 and 1993, and very few have been seen on the market. At 36mm, the watch is a delightful neo-vintage example that represents the exploratory spirit of the era in which it was created.

The reference 25668OR is powered by the automatic calibre 2120, an ultra-thin movement which was derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 movement. The Caliber 2120 was an initial project of Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The movement can be viewed through the sapphire caseback, which displays hand-engraved patterns, in addition to beautiful finishing.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétual 25668OR watch will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel 25668OR is in very good condition overall. Superficial marks can be found on the case and lugs, consistent with relative wear over time. The hallmarks and engravings on the case back are crisp and well defined.

The watch was recently returned from servicing with Audemars Piguet in London and comes with the remainder of its two-year servicing warranty, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.