Introduced in 1998, the Papillon was released to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the Daniel Roth manufacture. Though the watchmaker had been increasingly less involved in the brand from 1995 onwards, he took an active role in the design of the Papillon, to mark this historic milestone. It is understood that this was Roth's last creation for the eponymous brand, prior to starting a new chapter of independent watchmaking, under the Jean Daniel Nicolas name.

This distinctive jump hour model takes its name from the French word for butterfly, on account of the atypical dial layout, reminiscent of butterfly wings. It is understood that only 250 pieces were ever produced, with 110 in white gold, 110 in rose gold and 30 in platinum.

This was the last watch that Roth worked personally on during his time at the manufacture, as he became increasingly less involved in the brand after 1995. His final farewell, this is a stunning watch that combines both Roth’s signature elegant finishing and his innovative spirit. Indeed, the dial layout of the piece is unconventional yet pleasingly symmetrical. Furthermore, two types of guilloché are used on the dial, not only giving the piece a sense of depth, but also highlighting the watchmaker’s skill.

The complication used for this watch, the jump hour, is very much a product of its time. Indeed, during the last decade of 20th century, many independent watchmakers and established brands were experimenting with unconventional ways of displaying the time, with the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel, Cartier Tank à Guichets and Vacheron Constantin Saltarello being a few other noteworthy examples.

The elliptical case shape is also a trademark design from Roth, recurring throughout his body of work. Neither curved nor rectangular, it combines softness and angularity to produce an intriguing case that complements the balanced layout of the dial. In character with Roth’s tendency to provide a new twist on tradition and history, the watch is powered by a Girard-Perregaux calibre 3000 ébauche, and is finished, decorated, and engraved by hand.

Closer look

Condition

This Daniel Roth Papillon is in very good overall condition, with a few superficial marks consistent with minimal wear over time. The hallmarks on the reverse of the lugs and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.