Vacheron Constantin 222, 44018, Stainless Steel & Yellow Gold

Name: 222 | 44018 | Stainless Steel & Yellow Gold
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
SKU: CDWSSYG_V1851
Price: 72000.00 GBP
Availability: OutOfStock

An unusual configuration of the 222, this "Jumbo" reference 44018* features an incredibly rare deep black dial with no index markers, confirmed by a recent Certificate of Authenticity from Vacheron Constantin, depicting the watch alongside a full compliment of archival information. At 37mm, the watch is the larger of the two sizes offered by Vacheron Constantin, and possesses a vintage aesthetic that embodies the period it was manufactured in.

Worth Reading

The 222 is a rare example of a design that is firmly situated in an era of watchmaking, but also timeless in its appeal. When Vacheron Constantin tasked Jörg Hysek to design it, the heritage Swiss house was under siege from within the industry and outside of it. While the industry was facing the headwinds of a more modern technology, within Switzerland the many were undertaking a wholesale rethinking of what a luxury wristwatch should look like.

Released in 1977, a few years after the first stainless steel pieces with integrated bracelets appeared on the market taking it by storm, it nevertheless represented a total departure from the mould from which Vacheron Constantin created precious metal luxury dress watch up until then.

This 37mm "Jumbo" reference 44018 has a tonneau-shaped case with broad shoulders paired with a scalloped bezel. An elemental design cue, it's architectural in its depth, and features a polished rim where it meets the crystal. The precisely chamfered edge of the lugs features polished facets that give way to slim, brushed midcase. The crown is well proportioned and signed with the Maltese cross. The same motif, this time in golden, is repeated on the bottom right side of the case.

While most versions of the 222, especially in the mid-size edition, feature a silvered or champagne dial, this example has a deep black dial that appears more like a prototype than a regular production dial. Though it is unconfirmed as to how many examples were made, virtually none have appeared publicly, where such a dial has been confirmed by the archives. Importantly, the various signatures on the dial are all present and consistent, including the "automatic" indication and Swiss only at 6 o'clock. The overall appearance of the dial contrasts against the yellow gold bezel, giving it an especially vintage feel. But the watch is strikingly modern, with such a minimal dial that does not feature the usual index markers. The hour and minute hands as well as date aperture with matching date disc remains, and are rendered in yellow gold, which matches the bezel. This is paired with a two-tone bracelet in stainless steel and yellow gold, adding to the watch's charm.

Underpinning this reference is the ultra-slim calibre 1121, a movement based on the famous JLC 920 that also has a date and no seconds indication. It features 36 working jewels, Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. It remains one of the most cherished and technically impressive ultra-slim movements ever made, having easily transitioned into the world of contemporary watchmaking. The closed caseback is brushed and polished, with the 222 signature engraved on it.

A remarkable find, the rarity of execution and overall condition of this "Jumbo" 222 may well be a once in a lifetime opportunity. Even in the absence of the unusual dial, it's understood that less than 100 standard steel/gold Jumbo 222s were ever produced. Regardless, the watch stands alone as a striking and beautifully imagined object that wouldn't feel out of place in some of the most important vintage collections.

Specifications

Closer look

Brand:	Vacheron Constantin
Model:	222 ref. 44018/411M
Movement:	automatic calibre 1121
Functions:	date, hours, minutes
Features:	black dial, dauphine hands, gilt date disc
Case material:	stainless steel & yellow gold
Case diameter:	37mm
Case thickness:	7mm
Lug-to-lug:	45mm
Crystal:	sapphire front
Bracelet:	Vacheron Constantin stainless steel and yellow gold integrated bracelet (16 links of which 3 are removable), Vacheron Constantin stainless steel folding clasp
Year:	1981
Accompanying materials:	Vacheron Constantin leather box, Vacheron Constantin leather travel case, Certificate of Authenticity (signed, stamped & dated)

Condition

This Vacheron Constantin 222 is in excellent condition overall, particularly for a watch of its age. The case and bracelet show very light signs of wear throughout, only light superficial marks on the very surface of the material. The bracelet itself is wonderfully preserved, given so many examples have lost their rigidity where the bracelet meets the case, or have become warped overtime. The case and bracelet are consistent in profile and equal in their sharp and thick profile, as shown in photography. The original black dial and hands are free from any signs of imperfection. The engravings on the caseback and clasp are crisp and well defined. The watch was recently serviced by Vacheron Constantin and comes with a copy of the works, alongside the brand's impressive Certificate of Authenticity, which features the watch alongside a comprehensive breakdown of the information held in Vacheron Constantin's historic archives.

Warranty

The watch comes with the remainder of its servicing warranty from Vacheron Constantin directly, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.

The Birth of the 222

In the wake of the Quartz Crisis, watchmaking manufactures were under increased pressure to justify their existence, as the very idea of a mechanical watch was under threat.

Against this backdrop, the phenomenon of the luxury steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet was born. Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak in 1972, followed closely by the Patek Philippe Nautilus four years later, both of which were famously penned by Gérald Genta. Since then, these watches have gained a cult status which is difficult to quantify.

One year after the release of the Nautilus, in 1977, Vacheron Constantin put forward their own version of an integrated bracelet sports watch, with the 222. Designed Jörg Hysek, it was released to celebrate the 222nd anniversary of the manufacture. The 222 was produced for a brief eight-year period, between 1977 and 1984.

During that time, the core models of the 222 collection were the reference 44018, known the “Jumbo”, and the reference 46003, which was the mid-size version of the same design. According to factory records, around 700 'Jumbo' pieces and 1,000 'mid-size' pieces were produced across all metals, making these two variants of the 222 particularly uncommon. In comparison, the Nautilus and Royal Oak were made in far greater numbers.

Both Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe also offered “Jumbo” and mid-size versions of their distinctive Royal Oak and Nautilus. The latter often aimed to bring the design to a wider audience, who at the time preferred more modestly sized pieces. Vacheron Constantin continued to build on this trend, with this reference 46003 being a prime example of how the manufacture introduced a smaller diameter, whilst keeping the angular case and a high-quality automatic movement.