Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar, 43032P, Platinum

Just a year after the production of the reference 43031, Vacheron Constantin introduced the 43032, distinguished from the original reference by its skeletonised design. By the brand’s estimates, around 150 skeletonised watches were produced in platinum, with 130 featuring white subdials, while fewer than 20 wore blue subdials. A handful of examples were also produced with diamonds featured. 
 
This example features attractive blue subdials, that lend vibrancy to the otherwise understated 36mm platinum case. The four subdials give the face a visual symmetry that is as aesthetically pleasing as it is user-friendly. They all feature blue chapters, with scales printed in white. At 12 o’clock is the month indicator, while the subdial at 3 o’clock displays the date. The register at 6 o’clock features a moonphase display, together with the brand mark printed in black. The rich, inky blue of the moonphase is crafted from lapis lazuli, helping it stand out against the rich midnight shade of the registers. The register at 9 o’clock indicates the day of the week. All registers, barring the one at 6 o’clock, are skeletonised and feature white leaf-style hands. The reference 43032 makes use of a 48-month subdial, allowing the wearer to track what stage of the four-year cycle they’re in, and allowing for more precision in tracking the changing years over a longer period. The hours and minutes hands are dauphine style and faceted. 
 
The three-part case features a rounded profile, with all parts evenly mirror-polished. The bezel, rising from the mid-case gives the impression of a stepped case. On the mid-case, in addition to the crown signed with the Maltese cross, are four correctors to adjust the perpetual calendar. The slim, straight lugs further accentuate the delicate elegance of the face. 
 
Holding the watch up to light helps appreciate the extent to which the underlying calibre has been skeletonised. As seen through the display caseback, there is an impressive level of hand-finishing on the calibre 1120QP. It uses vertical brushing, mirror polish and bevelling visible on most surfaces. Many components, both at the front and back, have been treated to traditional hand-engraving in a floral pattern. The self-winding rotor also benefits from this treatment, skeletonised to its most essential structure, with those remaining parts beautifully engraved. At the centre of the rotor is a similarly skeletonised and engraved Maltese cross, while on the periphery lies a 21k gold rim, to make up for the mass the structure loses from the hollowing. In between the bottom lugs are precious metal hallmarks as well as the Maltese cross. 
 
The calibre 1120QP is a famed movement introduced in 1983 that built on the high-quality Jaeger-LeCoulre 920 ébauche. It features a perpetual calendar module designed by Swiss complications specialist, Dubois Dépraz. The module remains in use today, with the most recent perpetual calendars produced by Vacheron Constantin still employing it. 
 
The watch comes on a black leather strap, secured by a white gold pin buckle in the form of half a Maltese cross.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Vacheron Constantin Skeletonised Perpetual Calendar will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Vacheron Constantin Skeletonised Perpetual Calendar 43032P is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show very light superficial marks consistent with relative wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. The hallmarks between the lugs at six o'clock are very crisp and well defined, as well as those on the pin buckle.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.