Roger Dubuis H40 Chronograph, Rose Gold

The history of Roger Dubuis is rich and complex, as Dubuis started his career in the 1950s working for Longines, before moving on to Patek Philippe’s complications department. From there he went his own way, starting his workshop in the ‘80s. Later on, in 1995, Dubuis would launch his eponymous brand driven by businessman Carlos Dias. Dubuis' chronographs typically appear in three sizes: 34, 37 and 40mm. As the name suggests, the Hommage H40 presents the most modern case dimensions.

The first Roger Dubuis pieces were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Genevan watchmaking that Patek Philippe embodied, paired with the watchmaker's signature stylistic flair. Dubuis inspiration was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking the Geneva Seal for his movements to his design of deployant buckles. The Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were a tribute to the great watchmakers of old, according to Dubuis. In 2003, after only eight years, the watchmaker left his eponymous brand. Though his output from these earliest days was limited, the design and quality of the pieces he produced have stood the test of time.

According to Dias, the initial intention was to actually limit each Hommage series to 25. Following the suggestion of a collector based in Asia, where the number eight is considered to bring good luck, Dias decided to limit each variant to 28 pieces instead.
 
This Hommage Chronograph H40 combines a range of attractive features, such as a classically styled rose gold case, a contrasting black wave guilloché style dial, and applied Breguet numerals and faceted indices. The high polished concave bezel has a subtle stepped detail and tips its hat to chronographs produced in the 1940s and ‘50s. This section meets a satinated midcase from which the lugs flow out. The lugs are satinated in profile and polished up top. The midcase is also home to the chronograph pusher that are are designed to bring to mind the iconic Patek Philippe ref. 1463 ‘Tasti Tondi’. The crown is large and signed. The screwed down exhibition caseback has a polished rim that bears deep engravings detailing the brand mark and the place of origin – Geneva. The backs of the lugs are home to precious metal hallmarks. The watch comes on an alligator-style brown leather strap secured by a solid rose gold signed deployant clasp.

The classical two-register layout is lifted by the guilloché done in an undulating wave-like pattern that bring to mind shifting sands in a desert storm. The chronograph scales are printed in white for maximum contrast, as are the registers on the two subsidiary dials. The scales are the only part of the dial devoid of guilloché. The hours chapter features golden Breguet-style 12, 5, 6 and 7 markers, while the rest of the visible hours are denoted by faceted markers. The alpha-style hours and minutes hands are golden and skeletonised. The chronograph seconds indicator is a simple pointer while the two registers feature leaf-style hands.
 
The watch is powered by the Calibre RD 56, based on the Lemania 2310, visible through the caseback. Likely regulated by Dubuis himself, it is finished to a standard befitting the Geneva Seal it wears. It is a 21-jewel straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to five positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring, and a swan-neck micrometer regulator. As indicated by the "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory, which famously set far more exacting standards than the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC).

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Roger Dubuis H40 Chronograph will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Roger Dubuis H40 Chronograph is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show extremely light signs of wear and have been well preserved. On the brushed mid case, light oxidation is present, particularly surrounding the crown and pushers. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. On the caseback and folding buckle, the hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.