George Daniels Anniversary, Yellow Gold

Dr George Daniels is recognised as one of the greatest watchmakers of the 20th century. In 1981, he received an MBE for his services to horology, along with a CBE in 2010 – the first watchmaker ever to receive such an honour. During his lifetime, Daniels was one of the few people who built complete watches by hand, from his workshop on the Isle of Man, at a rate of around one watch per year.
 
First designed to mark 35 years since Daniels conceived of the design of the Co-Axial escapement, the 35-piece Anniversary series holds a special place in the master watchmaker’s canon. This piece, first commissioned two years after Daniels’s passing, was finished in 2015 and delivered in 2016.
 
The watch is rich not just with the history of the name on the dial, but because it marked the beginning of a new chapter – the coming-of-age for Daniels’ sole apprentice and protégé, Roger W. Smith. After having worked in isolation for most of his career, Daniels had called on his only apprentice and heir apparent to help complete the Anniversary series, after the promising watchmaker built two pocket watches entirely by hand over the course of several years to prove his skill to the master watchmaker.
 
Drawing on Daniels’ body of work, the pair created an entirely new calibre for the Anniversary series, which was then produced, cased and finished by Smith, according to Daniels’ exacting standards and style. This was especially the case by the time this example was created. While earlier orders in the series came with acknowledgement paperwork signed by George Daniels, this later example, bearing the serial number 1X and signed for by Smith, marks a definitive passing of the torch.
 
Crafted from yellow gold, the 40mm case features a rounded, double stepped bezel, elemental to Daniels’ aesthetic. Matching it in shape are the rounded profiles of the polished mid-case as well as the caseback. The corrector on the midcase at 9 o’clock helps set the date. The thin bezel of the display caseback features knurling as well as hallmarks detailing the precious metal the case is made from as well as the watchmaker’s mark. 
 
The dial, made entirely in-house and engraved by master horological engraver Charles Scarr, draws lineage from historically important pieces such as the Space Traveller I and the Spring Case Tourbillon. It features a range of engine-turned patterns. The outer reaches of the dial are decorated in a barleycorn pattern while inside the brushed chapter of black engraved Roman numeral indices the dial wears a diagonally oriented basket weave. The date register at 8 o’clock is differentiated with a hobnail pattern while the subsidiary seconds at 4 o’clock features a horizontally oriented basket-weave.
 
While the satiné circulaire chapter of engraved Roman indices is interrupted, the ring of minutes outside it runs through the two subsidiary registers. A similar chapter outlines the seconds subsidiary register while the date register features a chapter with italicised Arabic numerals. At 12 o’clock is a fan-style reserve indicator. The stick-style hands are another Daniels hallmark, as is the hour hand with the arrow pointer.
 
The calibre, undeniably Daniels in its functional aesthetic, is actually heavily influenced by Smith. Another example of Smith’s understanding of Daniel’s watchmaking, it was largely conceived by the former according to Daniels’ methods, featuring his innovation on the Co-axial escapement – a single wheeled variant. This version of the Co-Axial_ _builds upon the two-piece design originally conceived by Daniels, aiming to improve its efficiency. It was Smith’s first significant improvement and combined the upper and lower wheels essentially into one by adding raised teeth on the lower wheel. As a result, the escape wheel could be made in a single operation and this minimised potential for error.
 
True to traditions of English watchmaking, the manually wound calibre wears frosted gold finishing, with the serial number, maker’s mark and the words ‘Co-Axial escapement’ etched on the bridge. Also notable, is a cartouche with the triskelion motif of the Isle of Man. The architecture gives it considerable visual depth and interest. All numbering and lettering is hand-engraved, capping off what is a truly hand-made piece of horology, celebrating the relationship between some of the greatest horological craftspeople of our time.
 
This particular watch comes with its original black alligator strap and substantial signed 18-carat folding clasp, with twin release buttons. The watch also comes with all requisite paperwork, along with the original beautiful royal blue Daniels box, with gold details and other accessories.

Closer look

Condition

This George Daniels Anniversary is in excellent condition overall. Superficial marks are found throughout the case, bezel, and lugs. More specifically, light grazing and small dings can be seen on the very surface of stepped polished bezel and at the top of all four lugs.

The engine-turned dial shows attractive signs of age, with light oxidation surrounding the filled numerals on the chapter rings. The frosted gold movement shows no signs of imperfection. The hallmarks located on the caseback, just above the thin knurled bezel on the display caseback are crisp and well defined. These hallmarks detail the precious metal the case is made from as well as the watchmaker’s mark. These same hallmarks are also present on the handmade yellow gold folding clasp.

The set includes its rich navy blue calf box with gold detailing, as well as a matching "The Daniels Anniversary Wristwatch" leather-bound booklet. The original key for the box is present.

The Daniels setting pin and chain are made from solid gold and feature the maker's marks and English hallmarks. The pin itself is blued and matches perfectly with the screws found on the movement. Included in the box is a Daniels polishing cloth, along with an unused black alligator strap from Daniels London.

From the owner, the original acknowledgement of order (2013) is included as well as the final invoice (2015). These documents are printed on George Daniels headed paper and annotated by the original owner. Though folded, they remain very well preserved. 

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.