The UR-105 was the successor to the UR-103, the watch that first popularised Urwerk’s very particular watchmaking philosophy, underpinned by the conical wandering hours display. First revealed in 2014, and designated the UR-105 M, the watch featured an open display that showed off the lightweight canopy under which sat the cones of the wandering hours. The appearance was famously inspired by the shields that medieval knights carried as they charged into battle.
 
The UR-105 CT, which followed in 2017, had a markedly different inspiration and appearance. It was part of a trilogy of pieces – the UR-105 CT Black, Iron, and Kryptonite. The watches were inspired by the New York skyline, a place where one of the founders of Urwerk, designer and conceptual artist Martin Frei, spent a number of years when it was still a fledgling brand.
 
The UR-105 CT Iron is inspired by the streamliner aesthetic of the skyscrapers in the Big Apple, gleaming in the sunshine during the day. The UR-105 Black, conversely, imagines the same view in the dark. The UR-105 CT Kryptonite, with its lavish use of C3 Super-LuMinova, represents a view akin to the one you’d expect of Gotham City in the vintage Batman comic books Frei so enjoyed as a young child.
 
This UR-105 CT Iron features a stainless steel bezel and retractable, hunter-style hatch, with the caseback forged from titanium. This is a material the brand favours for its casebacks, not just for the weight savings but also for the hypoallergenic properties of titanium. The case measures 39.5mm wide and 53mm long. At its thickest point it stands just over 17mm tall, tapering gently down towards the time display. The stainless steel bezel features many details and facets. On top and in profile, the bezel is high polished, while the angled facet separating these two parts is media blasted, with the same treatment applied to the many cut out architectural details on the case.
 
Sitting atop the angular, targa-style sapphire display is a retractable hatch, with streamlined details. The high polish of the hatch is punctuated by the media blasted finishing on these ruts. The hatch is opened by a fluted pusher that is integrated into the island around which the sapphire crystal is shaped, and it sits flush with the case profile. The fluted detail is a considered choice, aiding the operation of the spring-loaded pusher.
 
Opening the hatch reveals the extensively skeletonised canopy atop the four cones of the wandering hours. In keeping with the silvered streamliner appearance of the case, the polyether ether ketone (PEEK) canopy also wears a similar shade. Even the hour ‘cones’ have been reduced to their elemental structure. They wear a blackened appearance with the hours achieved in luminous material. The arc of the minutes display is also similarly done, aiding night-time readability. Underneath the wandering hours are the cams which enable the dance of the cones. At this level is a mirror-finished wheel indicates the passing seconds digitally in increments of 10. The digits are punched out. This is an aesthetic choice and together with the skeletonised, honeycomb-style detail of the central portion of the seconds wheel, makes the arrangement lightweight but strong.
 
While such an indicator might seem unusual for a watch powered by the self-winding UR-5.03, based on the Zenith Elite calibre, this makes sense given another innovation the brand has championed. By way of a lever integrated in the caseback, the wearer can control the winding efficiency of the rotor. The rotor has a toothed rim that is coupled to twin turbines that are visible on the caseback. The 'full’ rotor speed position is designed for when the wearer is sedentary, and the rotor needs to work at capacity to keep the mainspring replenished. The 'reduced' position is ideal for light activity, while in case of vigorous activity, such as when playing a physical sport, the rotor’s winding action can be blocked completely, effectively turning it into a manually wound movement. This is done to prevent the rotor from wildly spinning, especially in the non-winding direction, putting strain on the bearings that anchor it.
 
The UR-105 CT Iron comes on two alligator-grained leather straps, secured to the case by screws. The watch comes as a full set with its full set of box and paperwork, including the original bill of sale of 2018. It represents a sleek iteration of the UR-105 aesthetic, inspired by the time Frei spent in New York City when designing the UR-103. It is fitting then that UR-105 CT, successor to the UR-103, pays hommage to this early period in the brand's story.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Urwerk UR-105 CT Iron will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Urwerk UR-105 CT Iron is in excellent overall condition. The case shows extremely light superficial marks on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. The engravings on the caseback and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity. Urwerk has additionally offered a complimentary service to the future owner which can be exercised within the first six months of purchase, extending the warranty by a further two years from the date of completion.