Urwerk is the creative brainchild of young watchmakers Felix and Thomas Baumgartner (Thomas left in 2004), alongside founding partner and industrial designer, Martin Frei. Felix Baumgartner first learnt about watchmaking in his father’s atelier, who restored historically significant clocks. He would later attend the prestigious watchmaking school in Solothurn and create complicated watches for independent maker Svend Andersen. The other half of Urwerk, Martin Frei, has a background in graphic and industrial design, complementing Felix’s watchmaking abilities.
This Urwerk UR-103.01 is the first of the Urwerk 103 collection and is part of a limited release of just 25 pieces in white gold and rose gold respectively. Although the caseback states that there were 25 rose gold pieces made, virtually none in this configuration have appeared publicly, which may suggest fewer were made, especially given the low, single-digit number of this watch.
The watch offers a contemporary take on the wandering hours complication, with a monochromatic colour palette and a futuristic design inspired by science fiction and space exploration. This radical piece is widely considered to be the reference which put them on the map, with a redesigned wandering hours complication and an entirely new case profile.
Aesthetically, the UR-103.01 embodies Urwerk's approach to watchmaking, with a futuristic design which has become synonymous with the brand. The case is made from rose gold, which has developed a light patina over time, emphasising the charm and character of the watch’s history, much like an old coin, and gives the feeling of wearing a small gold ingot on your wrist. Meanwhile, the atypical sapphire crystal and distinct case proportions are reminiscent of a spaceship, enhancing the whimsical nature of the watch.
The watch displays time thanks to three satellite discs, which rotate on a centre wheel, where the hour and minute hands are usually attached. The hours on the disks point to the minutes on a 120-degree sector, gliding over them over the course of an hour. The rotating ring turns 360 degrees, one full turn, in 3 hours.
The rose gold UR-103.01 is powered by Urwerk’s manual-winding calibre 3.03 and possesses a user-adjustable fine-tuning screw on the caseback, a feature more usually found on traditional pocketwatches. With this, the wearer can adjust the rate to gain or lose up to 30 seconds a day, and it is a very rare feature in modern wristwatches.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Urwerk UR-103.01 will be subject to 20% VAT.