The Rebirth of A. Lange & Söhne
The name Lange has been tied to watchmaking and the Saxony area of Germany for centuries. In the 1800s, Ferdinand Aldoph Lange – which is where the “A” in A. Lange & Söhne comes from – began his watchmaking journey under the tutelage of a master watchmaker, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes. Passed from father to son, the Lange name flourished, before encountering considerable obstacles during the 20th century. The brand got caught up in the turmoil caused by World War One, the financial crash of 1929, World War Two and was finally placed under the rule of the Soviet Union. The company was nationalised for the next 45 years, essentially spelling the end of the A. Lange & Söhne name.
Years later, in 1990, the brand was resuscitated by the great-grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange, Walter, and watch industry veteran, Günter Blümlein. Blümlein, a Nuremberg native who grew up in post-War Germany, had previously overseen the resurgence of IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre. This started the four-year journey that Lange and Blümlein would go on with their small team to bring the company back from the ashes, with the release of their first four models on the 24th October 1994. These innovative models, all of them possessing their own distinctive visual language, are comprised of the Arkade, Saxonia, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite and the Lange 1.
A Foray into Luxury Sports watches
While A. Lange & Söhne may be better known for their classically styled dress watches, the Odysseus is a sleek steel sports watch that departs from their usual oeuvre. Introduced in 2019, the piece is noticeably more versatile and relaxed, giving the appearance of a true sports watch, while still retaining much of the brand’s signature style. A. Lange & Söhne has only produced a small handful of stainless steel watches in its history, making the choice to introduce the Odysseus also the more bold.
The name “Odysseus” is derived, naturally, from the classical hero of Homer’s The Odyssey, who spent nearly 10 years adrift at sea encountering all manner of challenges. In turn, this watch is intended for the wearer who enjoys a more active lifestyle. The pieces within the Odysseus series are all protected by a water-resistant case and a screwed-down crown and caseback, combining the best of classic and contemporary watchmaking.
This example is one of the earliest Odysseus watches produced, and is distinguished by its removable bracelet, a feature which is only found on the earliest pieces to have left the manufacture. Odysseus watches now sold by the brand feature an integrated bracelet, which cannot be detached from the case, making the first generation pieces subtly different from those produced today.
The Design
The watch has a satisfying depth to it, thanks to its three-part construction, which gives it a sense of complexity. In keeping the recent trend for integrated bracelet sports watches - spearheaded by the Royal Oak and the Nautilus - the Odysseus has a dark-blue dial, which contrasts attractively against the stainless steel case and that uses a wide variety of finishes, including a guilloché pattern in the form of concentric circles on the hour chapter ring, as well as a hand-hammered texture on the central portion of the dial.
The piece bears the brand’s signature oversized date aperture at 3 o’clock, which is framed in an identical metal to the case. The day aperture at 9 o’clock is present in the same style, inspired by the Five-Minute Clock at the Semper Opera House in Dresden. The index markers, as well as the hour and minute hands are filled with Super-Luminova, to improve legibility in low light conditions. Two pushers are discretely integrated into the case, on the right hand side, allowing for adjustment of the big day and date displays.
The piece features an integrated bracelet in a row of five links, brushed and chamfered to create an attractive interplay with the light and further giving the watch a sporty look. The bracelet allows for its length to be changed easily, giving the wearer up to 7 millimetres of adjustment, all through the button located on the outside of the clasp.
The Movement
This A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Ref. 363.179 is powered by the calibre L.155.1 Datomatic, which is beautifully finished and can be seen through the sapphire caseback. The architecture of A. Lange and Söhne movements are perhaps their most distinctive feature, with a three-dimensional aspect that is truly unique. Every bridge is ribbed, polished and chamfered, with a hand-engraved balance cock bringing an additional flourish.
The movement is set with 31 jewels and has a power reserve of 50 hours. It also beats at 4Hz – a notable increase from A. Lange and Sohne’s typical movements so the watch can withstand a shock.
The Set
This A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Ref. 363.179 is accompanied by its outer box, inner box, leather folio, Guarantee and Service paperwork (confirming sale in 2020, in the A. Lange & Söhne boutique in Beijing), manuals and two setting pins. The bracelet has 15 links, as well as an additional half link.
