The collaboration
The year 2020 was the 15th one since Maximillian Büsser founded MB&F. It was also the 15th year since the heritage brand H. Moser & Cie. was resurrected by the Meylan family. They jointly marked the occasion by imbuing two watches – the MB&F FlyingT and the LM101 – with the spirit of both brands. While H. Moser & Cie. took the lead on the former, creating the H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, MB&Fcrafted an iteration of the LM101 that blended several Moser details Büsser admired.
The MB&F x H. Moser & Cie LM101 was produced in a series of four fumé dials in different colourways, with 15 examples of each. This piece, bearing the reference 51.SL.MB, wears the Funky Blue fumé dial. In addition to the fumé dials, which are an H. Moser & Cie. signature, this series of LM101s also featured that brand’s double hairspring technology. Another element, marked by the absence of any brand mark, was a reference to the aesthetic of H. Moser & Cie.’s Concept line.
The design - in stainless steel
The stainless steel variant is perhaps the best loved of the 40mm LM101 cases. The first instance of the brand producing the LM101 in stainless steel was when MB&F created a limited series of 10 pieces in collaboration with Hodinkee. Since 2021 the brand has produced a stainless steel variant of the LM101 with a light blue dial. However, the MB&F x H. Moser & Cie LM101 of course predates this standard production piece.
The 16mm profile of the case is mostly due to the remarkably domed sapphire crystal. The dimensions are minimised by the concave form of the minimal bezel. The bezel has a flat profile where it meets the case, and is evenly high polished. The horizontal satination of the midcase offers contrast, while the lugs that originate from this part, are vertically brushed in profile. The lugs are fractionally stepped from the midcase, the points of separation visible on top and in profile. Their curved down form is adorned with high polishing on top; they also have a gentle facet to them. The knurled crown, with the the MB&F signature, is at 4 o’clock. The bezel around the display caseback is also concave with laser engraved details such as the mark of the two brands that collaborated on the watch, case metal, serial number as well as its limited edition status.
The fumé dial’s sunburst detail goes from a cool blue shade in the centre to a pitch black on the periphery in a way that immediately makes H. Moser & Cie.’s involvement apparent. The architecture of the raised arms of the balance bridge are obviously key to the LM101 aesthetic, as is the oversized, 14mm wide flying balance wheel. However, closer inspection reveals the twin springs, another detail from H. Moser & Cie.’s arsenal. Produced by Precision Engineering AG, the sister concern of H. Moser & Cie’s that MB&F sources its balance springs from, the double spring offers advantages related to precision due to improved isochronism. This is because the two springs, tethered in opposition to each other on the four-armed balance wheel, help negate the effect of the displacement of the point of gravity when they expand during the normal functioning of the balance. Situated within the form of the black polished and rounded balance bridge is the V-shaped escape bridge, vertically brushed and noticeably flatter. The action of the Swiss lever escapement, together with the motion of the balance wheel, lends dynamism to the dial side that lack a seconds indication.
Offset and plied by feuille-style hands, is the minimal time display. It is devoid of any scales, as is the up-down style power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock.
The movement
Through the exhibition caseback is visible the manually wound calibre that Kari Voutilainen helped MB&F develop. The bridges are visually reminiscent of pocket watch calibres. Set against the baseplate adorned with perlage, the bridges wear a darkened appearance, a consequence of them being treated to NAC. The 221-component, single barrel calibre offers 45 hours of autonomy and the balance on the dial side beats at 18,000 beats per hour. It is beautifully detailed, with Côtes de Genève, fine anglage and calligraphic engravings detailing the jewel count, country of origin and the “MB&F’ and ‘K Voutilainen’ marks.
The 21mm lugs come furnished with a strap that features a woven nylon top and blue leather lining. The strap is secured by the brand’s signature spring-loaded double deployant clasp.
This LM101 represents a rare expression of both aesthetics and technical ability of two exceedingly individual schools of watchmaking in one harmonious package.
A Collected Man is a Pre-Owned Approved partner of MB&F, a relationship which stems from our shared values and the deep appreciation we have for the work of Maximillian Büsser and his friends. We are pleased to note that MB&F has graciously offered a complimentary service to the buyer within the first six months after the sale.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this MB&F x H. Moser & Cie LM101 will be subject to 20% VAT
