The DB28 was recognised with the overall top prize – the Aiguille d’Or – at the 2011 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Since then, the line has been a canvas for De Bethune’s experimentation with materials as well as complications. In 2018, the brand showcased a semi-skeletonised iteration of the aesthetic, with the barrels bridge as well as the twin barrels themselves reduced to their basic structure, thereby revealing the power train of the manually wound calibre DB2115V4. It turned the mundane task of winding the calibre into horological theatre, with the mainspring barrels dancing in sync as the wearer replenishes them.
The following year, in 2019, De Bethune gave the Steel Wheels the full treatment, extensively blueing the case, floating lugs and dial by treating them to heat. It is a type of decoration the brand has perfected and patented since 2006. The DB28 Steel Wheels Blue features many details particular to De Bethune, be it its bleeding edge research in balance architecture as well as its particular take on finishing. This variant of the DB28 Steel Wheels Blue was created in a limited series of five pieces only.
The grade 5 titanium case, 42.6mm across and 9.3mm high, is polished and then treated to 700º C, turning them a vibrant shade of blue. The two-part construction featured a flat ‘bezel’ and midcase, although at 6 o’clock, it extends marginally beyond the circular form to accommodate the bi-metal spherical moonphase, another De Bethune innovation. The display caseback is hemmed in by a stepped bezel. However, the edge of this stepped detail flows rather organically. The caseback is secured by eight screws.
As is customary for the DB28, the case is fitted with the longer variety of the brand’s signature floating lugs. These pivot at 3 and 9 o’clock on the midcase, wrapping around a wide delta of wrist circumferences. They are skeletonised with ogival ends, typical to De Bethune. Their 26mm distance is furnished with a grained leather navy strap secured by a signed, blued titanium pin buckle.
The dial, semi-skeletonised, features heat-blued titanium adorned with a variety of finishes. On the outer reaches is a brushed titanium chapter of serrated minutes, with spherical titanium hour markers integrated into it. The dial is mirror-polished and stepped, with a marginal concavity to it. This mirror-finish of the dial – which curves around the form of the mainspring barrels and wheels of the keyless works and gear train – is found on the central portion of the inverted V-shaped central bridge. This high polish continues on the rounded and blued balance bridge as well as the rim of moonphase display.
The arms of the barrel bridge are decorated in the particular mirrored pattern of striping that the brand refers to as Côtes De Bethune. The space between the stripes features another De Bethune adornment – fine grained guilloché that the brand calls microlight.
The hands are crafted from stainless steel. The hour hand features a thin rim with a sapphire insert, while the minutes hand features a form mirroring the V-shape of the bridge. The balance bridge is equipped with the proprietary, jewelled triple pare-chute shock protection system which makes the arrangement resistant to the rigours of everyday wear. The balance wheel, also of a proprietary design, is crafted from titanium, with gold timing weights. It beats at a rapid 28,800 vibrations per hour, working with a silicon escape wheel.
The moonphase, which is accurate to one lunar day every 122 years, is of De Bethune’s own design. It is manipulated by a corrector discrete integrated on the midcase between 3 and 4 o’clock. The watch comes with a pusher for this action. The moonphase orb is crafted from palladium and steel – when treated to heat, the steel half turns blue.
Underneath the time display are the open-work mainspring barrels, its skeletonised form adorned with sailed detailing done by hand. The contrast of the barrels, which offer six days of reserve, against the blued dial makes for a particularly attractive iteration. Stainless steel hands and the hour markers that are also of a similar shade, make the arrangement readable as well.
The rhodium plate on the caseback is decorated with perlage. A blued titanium ring runs along the periphery of the plate integrates the scale of the up-down power reserve indicator as well as the brand and line mark, serial number out of five and the details of the titanium of the watch is crafted from.
The watch comes with its set of inner and outer boxes as well as the warranty paperwork from when it was retailed in 2019 in Japan.
The DB28 Steel Wheels Blue is in many ways the ultimate iteration of the line, imbued with many of De Bethune’s long catalogue of innovations, both technical and decorative. Accommodating it all in a package that is entirely wearable and tasteful is a challenge De Bethune has risen admirably to.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this De Bethune Steel Wheels Blue will be subject to 20% VAT
