The DB25 series, first introduced in 2007, features pieces distinguished by their traditional forms, especially in the context of De Bethune’s watchmaking. Over the years, it has been a canvas for the brand to display an array of technical abilities, from its signature moonphase to perpetual calendar complications and also its take on the tourbillon.
This "Starry Varius" DB25VRS3 showcases De Bethune's mastery of materials, paired with its artistic inspirations from the world of astrology. The 42mm rose gold case is perfectly classical and wholly De Bethune, with a finely finished, high polished case and hollowed out lugs with ogival, or bullet-shaped, ends. The crown, with its knurled extremity, is perfectly ergonomic.
The dial has a toroidal chapter of Roman hour markers and chemin de fer of minutes punctuated by rose gold plots corresponding to the hours. The arrangement is as attractive as it is legible. At the centre, De Bethune brings to bear its expertise with materials, with heat hued titanium centre, polished to a mirror effect. The subtly engraved brand mark almost disappears into this night sky. Adorning the expanse is an approximation of the Milky Way, produced by micro lasers imprinting gold leaf on to the dial. The dusting of larger plots are hand applied and solid gold. The shade of the case, the hour plots and the stars tie together nicely with the rose gold Breguet style hands.
The manual wind calibre DB2005, is visually dominated by the delta-shaped bridge that holds the twin mainsprings in place. These combine to give the calibre six days of autonomy. The bridge also obscures the view of the wheels of the going train, presenting a distinctly minimal appearance. The bridge and the baseplate wear Côtes de Bethune, the brands signature mirrored style of striping. A large, rounded bridge anchors the fast spinning blued balance wheel with its six inertia weights, one of the brand's latest generation iterations. The balance bridge, with jewels on both ends, is further protected by another heat-blued bridge, for better shock tolerance. On the baseplate is a plaque detailing the make and serial number.
The DB25 Starry Varius comes on an alligator grained, dark blue strap affixed with a rose gold buckle. It is a full set, with its box and paperwork. While often seen with a titanium case, the more unusual rose gold is much more of an occasion befitting this special dial.