De Bethune DB3, White Gold

The DB3 was part of the first five watches introduced during De Bethune's 2002 presentation, and according to De Bethune, this example is just one of 18 watches that have been produced since 2002. Overall, the DB3 has a classical, understated design that might seem surprising when compared to De Bethune's later offerings, but represents an initial exploration of their early style. Furthermore, in this watch we can see the seeds of several aesthetic cues that would go on to be staples in their watches. 

The 42mm white gold case is perfectly classical and established signature De Bethune traits early on, with a finely finished, high polished case and solid lugs with ogival, or bullet-shaped, ends. In later iterations, we see a continued evolution of this feature, with hollowed out lugs and differing sizes but retaining the distinctive ogival shape. Notably, the case has a pale yellowish appearance, but was originally bright white, as the rhodium coating appears to have faded over the years, giving this watch a very unique look. Some of the original colour can be seen on the back of the lugs, but the transformation has been remarkably uniform throughout. The size would have been rather unusual at the time, but blends seamlessly to a modern context.

A barleycorn-style guilloché can be seen in the center of the dial and a matte chapter ring where the blue Roman numerals are printed. A cartouche bearing the De Bethune logo is placed above the 12 o'clock marker. De Bethune's take on Breguet-style hands is still used in later watches, here leaning more towards traditional stylings. There is a dual-time display at 6 o'clock and a power reserve indicator that has been styled like a moonphase complication, where the moon moves between maximum and minimum working power.

The calibre is a manual-winding finished with Côte De Bethune and hand polished throughout. Turning the watch over reveals a closed caseback, a detail that further adds to the classicism of the watch. All of the watch's functions can be adjusted through the crown at 3 o'clock.

A letter from Denis Flageollet is also included with this piece, in addition to a letter of authenticity that highlights the watch as belonging to the heritage collection. Ultimately, the watch represents an intriguing period of independent history, marking the earliest features of a brand more known for its unusual style today. While these earlier examples may be surprising to current lovers of De Bethune, their timeless appeal is something that can be admired by all.

Closer look

Condition

This De Bethune DB3 is in excellent overall condition. The case, lugs, and caseback show extremely light superficial marks and only on the very surface of the material. The rhodium coating has faded over time, creating a unique pale white appearance throughout the majority of the case, with only small signs of the original coating on the reverse side of the lugs and crown. The dial and hands are well preserved without any signs of imperfection. On the solid caseback, the engravings and hallmarks are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by De Bethune in September 2024 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from  A Collected Man.