De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue, Milky Way, Titanium

In 2011, De Bethune was awarded the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) - a commendation that is awarded for the best overall watch in all categories - for the DB28. The "Kind of Blue" is a playful variation on the original piece, introducing a very different aesthetic with its completely electric blue appearance from case to dial to movement, and that can also be read as a tongue-in-cheek reference to the legendary Miles Davis album. This "Milky Way" example is a further expansion on the successful series, continuing the theme of artistic experimentation on the DB28 canvas.
 
The independent watchmaker is best known for decidedly contemporary design innovations, that firmly push the boundaries of 21st century horology. In its quest for mechanical perfection, De Bethune continues to conduct research and development within the manufacturer’s laboratory, embracing the creation of materials new to the watch industry. The Kind of Blue "Milky Way" is a fitting demonstration of this, displaying a multitude of finishes, treatments, and materials that have become widely recognised for their use in timepieces from De Bethune.
 
The DB28 Kind of Blue displays a blued-titanium bridge on the dial in De Bethune’s signature ‘triangle’ form, finished using traditional Cotes de Genève techniques. In the centre lies a delicate scatter of silver specks intended to represent the Milky Way viewed from afar. The skeletonised hands offer a modern interpretation of classic Breguet styling, creating depth and preserving legibility by contrasting against the blue aesthetic of the watch. Contrasting rose-gold 'arrow head' indexes denote the hours. To complete the dial, a polished, spherical, moon-phase display can be found below at 6 o'clock in place of the typical De Bethune signature, created out of palladium and flame-blued steel.
 
The manually-wound DB 2115 calibre movement not only displays finishing of the highest quality, with hand-decorated components, but is also technologically exceptional - representing De Bethune’s unique combination of cutting-edge precision and 18th century tradition. The 299 components show remarkable hand-finishing, with concentric graining and sharp, polished-bevels. With self-regulating twin barrels seen on the dial-side of the watch, a power-reserve of 144 hours (6 days) is achieved, shown by the highly-contrasted, rose-gold power-reserve indicator on the reverse of the watch.
 
By way of protection, the DB 2115 calibre also boasts a triple-parachute shock-absorbing system; unique to De Bethune calibres. The bridge of the triple parachute is secured by a spring-based system, protecting the heart of the movement. The various architectural elements are connected by three jewels, thereby absorbing shocks and ensuring precise re-positioning of the bridge after displacement.
 
Sized at a contemporary 42.6 mm in diameter, the distinctive drum-shaped case of the DB28 is made from blued titanium. The manufacture's articulated, hollowed lugs are spring-loaded, neatly forming around the wrist. The entire watch is given this same high-polish blued finish, while the screw-down crown is located at the 12 o’clock position.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this De Bethune DB28 Kind of Blue will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This DB28 Kind Of Blue Milky Way is in excellent overall condition. The blued titanium case shows minimal signs of wear, consistent with light usage. The case has also started to reveal a rich purple hue at the crown, edges of bezel, and lugs, where oxidation has set in. There are a few very small signs of wear on the reverse sides of the lugs, visible only through a loupe.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.