The DB28 was recognised with the overall top prize – the Aiguille d’Or – at the 2011 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Since then, the line has been a canvas for De Bethune’s experimentation with materials as well as complications. Presented in 2015, the DB28GS was intended to be the sporty addition to the collection, offering a sleeker silhouette across the case and dial, building on the floating lugs, exposed balance wheel, and delta-shaped bridge so elemental to the DB28's style.
This particular example is a variation that takes inspiration from the John Player Special Lotus race cars, an unmistakeable colour scheme of gold and black. According to De Bethune, the colours of the watch were intended to pay homage to the 1970s era of Formula One racing, and align the work done in mechanical and aerodynamic research on cars during this time with De Bethune's own work to advance watchmaking craft.
To achieve the precise shade of black and gold needed, the team crafted the gold accents from oxidised titanium. Meanwhile, we see that black Zirconium is used for the case middle, which is decorated with "microlight" finishing, and hardened steel for the case back, bezel, and floating lugs. These steel parts are coated with DLC (diamond-like carbon coating) - providing a hard layer that creates a stronger surface more resistant to wear and tear. At 44mm, the watch is a significant presence on the wrist yet is surprisingly wearable, with slightly curved lugs that allow it to sit comfortably on the wrist.
The openworked dial is made from black titanium, which has been satin-brushed to a smooth appearance. Meanwhile, the delta-shaped centre features the same microlight finishing style found on the sides of the case. Similarly, there are golden accents throughout, including on the polished bridge at 6 o'clock. Meanwhile, the hour and minute hands are in black and yellow, respectively, with the tips of each filled with luminescent material. A rotating bezel completes the look, allowing the wearer to track time more easily.
The watch is powered by the DB2080, which incorporates an optimised titanium balance wheel, and a De Bethune balance spring with a flat terminal curve, as well as a silicon escape wheel. We are given a glimpse through the caseback, where the black and gold theme continues, in addition to the microlight finishing found on the dial and case. In terms of finishing, we see smoothly bevelled edges and curves, completed with sharply finished angles and wheels.
The crown for winding the watch sits at 12 o'clock, and this is mirrored by a pusher at 6 o'clock that allows you to illuminate the dial through a dynamo system constructed through a small gear train driven by twin barrels, allowing it to be seen in the dark. The watch is also accompanied by its set of inner and outer boxes as well as the warranty paperwork.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this De Bethune DB28 JPS will be subject to 20% VAT