Roger Dubuis Monopusher Chronograph, H40, White Gold

The history of Roger Dubuis is rich and complex, as Dubuis started his career in the 1950s working for Longines, before moving on to Patek Philippe’s complications department. From there he went his own way, starting his workshop in the ‘80s. Later on, in 1995, Dubuis would launch his eponymous brand with the help of businessman Carlos Dias. Dubuis' chronographs typically appear in three sizes: 34, 37 and 40mm. This Monopusher Chronograph is in the largest size, at 40mm.

The first Roger Dubuis pieces were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Genevan watchmaking that Patek Philippe embodied paired with the watchmaker's signature stylistic flair. Dubuis' attempt to emulate Patek Philippe was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking the Geneva Seal for his movements to his design of deployant buckles. The Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were designed as a tribute to the great watchmakers of old, according to Dubuis. In 2003, after only eight years, the watchmaker left his eponymous brand. Though his output in the earliest days of the brand was limited, the design and quality of the pieces he produced have stood the test of time.

This Hommage Monopusher H40 combines a range of attractive features, such as the glossy ivory dial – created from a thick lacquer that gives it the appearance of enamel – applied Breguet numerals and distinctive white gold case. Traditionally, it is understood that each variant of the Hommage series was limited to 28 pieces. According to Dias, the initial intention was actually limit each series to 25. Following the suggestion of a collector based in Asia, where the number 8 is considered to bring good luck, Dias decided to limit each series to 28 instead.

The design is that of a two-register chronograph, with a smooth ivory dial and applied Breguet numerals. The unusual curved Breguet numerals are a nod to vintage chronographs from the past, notably the most desirable iterations from Patek Philippe. The polished surfaces and outer dial printing in black form an excellent contrast against the white surface. The feuille hands are also made out of white gold, matching the hands in the subdials. 

The case is very distinct with its polished, stepped concave bezel and polished lugs. The three-piece construction gives the watch a bold presence on the wrist, measuring 40mm in diameter. A single pusher, placed in the crown, is used to start, stop and reset the chronograph function.

The watch is powered by the Calibre RD 65, based on the Lemania 2310, much like the Patek Philippe ref. 5070. The movement bears the Seal of Geneva and was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself. At the time of production, it was only Patek Philippe movements that carried the Geneva Seal, hence why Roger Dubuis felt that it was crucial to have the same hallmark of quality. The seal focuses on the art of decorating a movement with finesse and skill, in the style of Genevan watchmaking.

Two variations of the Monopusher Chronograph H40 exist – one with a pusher at 2 o'clock, and this example with a pusher in its crown. What separates these two is the movement that powers them, with the one with the pusher at 2 o'clock being rarer, but making use of the RD 50, derived from the Omega calibre 33.3. This example is slightly more easily found, but its movement is based on a legendary calibre that has been used in watches ranging from the Patek Philippe 3970 to the Breguet 5287.

The complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 21 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to five positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and a swan-neck micrometer regulator. As indicated by the "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory, setting far more exacting standards than a test from the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC).

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Roger Dubuis Monopusher Chronograph will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Roger Dubuis Monopusher Chronograph H40 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear throughout. The dial, hands, and moment are free from any signs of imperfections. The hallmarks on the reverse of all four lugs are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.