Founded by Maximilian Büsser nearly twenty years ago, in 2005, MB&F have become known for their innovative, conceptual watches made in small numbers and which seek to push the boundaries of how we see time. Their approach to watchmaking focuses on collaboration and bringing handcrafted methods to their futuristic ideas. Their Horological Machines are kinetic sculptures intended to tease out the imagination, displaying time in entirely unconventional ways. This HM4 is an ambitious interpretation of their mission, with its avantgarde, steampunk design.
Inspired by Max Büsser's childhood pastime, assembling model aircraft, the watch is modelled after the A-10 plane, an American aircraft from the 1970s renowned for its design, particularly with regards to the twin jet engines mounted near the tail-end of the plane. In keeping with the aviator inspiration, the watch also gives the impression of a set of pilot goggles, further adding to its steampunk charm.
This HM4 "Double Trouble" example is a limited edition piece released in 2011, differing very slightly from the original version with two major additions that highlight the piece's vintage inspirations. The case features rivets running throughout the surface to mimic an airplane fuselage, in addition to the intricately rendered pin-up art found on the side of the watch, from which it derives its playful nickname. The twin dancers are especially characteristic of the period, seen on many WWII-era aircraft, and were painted by the miniature painter Isabelle Villa in eye-catching shades that bring the piece to life. The addition of this micro-painting required more work on an already complicated case, with the titanium case first being machined to allow space for the paint, then when it is dry, layers of clear lacquer are applied to ensure that the painting sits well.
The case of this HM4 is constructed from several parts and materials, making this a complex piece to manufacture. Additionally, it combines angles and curves to great effect, with several artfully placed sapphire sections revealing more of the watch's inner workings and providing a retrofuturistic appearance. Despite its unconventional shape, the watch fits comfortably on the wrist thanks to the thinner, unusual hinge used for the strap. In the centre of the watch is another sapphire crystal section, with the balance wheel visible below. Two crowns are found at the ends of each of the "engines", with the one on the left to wind the watch, and the one on the right to aid in setting the time.
At the time, Max Büsser called the HM4 MB&F's most legible watch to date, and this is evident when you take a glance at the engine openings of the watch, with the power reserve on the left and a simple time-only dial on the right. There is no trick to reading the time here, and significant inspiration is derived from pilot watches of the 40s. The dial is black, with white indexes, luminous arrow-shaped hands, and a triangle at 12 o'clock, all choices to enhance the legibility of the watch. Furthermore, the dials are set at an angle when the watch is worn, making it easy for the wearer to glance down and read the time. Notably, a special paint has been used to create a patinated look over the dials, further enhancing its vintage appearance.
The movement that powers this watch was developed over three years in conjunction with Laurent Besse and Beranger Reynard at Les Artisans Horlogers. It consists of 311 parts, and it makes use of dual mainspring barrels, which are connected to twin vertical gear trains, ensuring a smooth transfer of power. Turning the watch over reveals another sapphire caseback, allowing us to view the brushed surfaces of the parts, further pushing the industrial aesthetic of the overall piece.
This HM4 Double Trouble is accompanied by its original papers, including its box which features an outline of the dancing women, in addition to an MB&F strap, an example made from vintage Swiss military bags, accompanied by white hand-stitching.
A Collected Man is a Pre-Owned Approved partner of MB&F, a relationship which stems from our shared values and the deep appreciation we have for the work of Maximillian Büsser and his friends. We are pleased to note that MB&F has graciously offered a complimentary service to the buyer within the first six months after the sale.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this MB&F HM4 Double Trouble will be subject to 20% VAT
