Introduced in 2003, the DB8 has a classical, understated design that might seem surprising when compared to their later offerings, but represents an early exploration of De Bethune's style. In this watch we can see the seeds of several aesthetic cues that would go on to be staples in their watches. The DB8 is a monopusher chronograph, an evolution of the brand's first watch, the DB1, which housed the complication. Rather intriguingly, the DB8's story has already come full circle, as it is considered part of De Bethune's Heritage Collection, and the passing of its 10th anniversary in 2023 has already given rise to the DB Eight, a decidedly modernised reimagination of this classic piece.
Turning our attention back to the original DB8, the overall layout is clear and classical in appearance. A barleycorn-style guilloché can be seen in the center of the dial and a matte chapter ring where the blue Arabic numerals and central chronograph seconds are printed. A cartouche bearing the De Bethune logo is placed below the 12 o'clock marker, while the hands are similarly heat blued, and match the numerals, adding a tasteful touch of colour that nods to De Bethune's later obsessions with this colour in their watches.
The 42mm rose gold case is perfectly classical and established signature De Bethune traits early on, with a finely finished, high polished case and solid lugs with ogival, or bullet-shaped, ends. In later iterations, we see a continued evolution of this feature, with hollowed out lugs and differing sizes but retaining the distinctive ogival shape.
The chronograph here is also colloquially known as a "football timer", because of its single-register, 45-minute chronograph that allows the wearer to time both halves of a football match. It can be stopped and started via the pusher in the crown at 3 o'clock. The movement that powers the watch is a variation of the 045MC, developed while Denis Flageollet was at THA Ebauche, another similarity with the DB1 – in this iteration, this has been tweaked slightly to incorporate the register at 6 o'clock. Turning the watch over reveals a closed caseback, a detail that further adds to the classicism of the watch.
This DB8 is accompanied by its original box that features ornate floral decoration throughout the surface. A letter from Denis Flageollet is also included, in addition to a recently issued certificate that classifies the watch as belonging to the heritage collection. Ultimately, the watch represents an intriguing period of independent history, marking the earliest features of a brand more known for its contemporary style today. While these earlier examples may be surprising to more recent lovers of De Bethune, their timeless appeal is something that can be admired by all.