This unique Steel Wheels variant was completed at the request of a private collector in October 2020, with the aim of creating an entirely monochromatic, greyscale version of the original. Building on the design of the first Steel Wheels, which was already limited to 25 pieces, its unique details include a grey spherical moon and grey chapter ring. The watch speaks to De Bethune's rare position – their vision in creating these cutting-edge pieces while accommodating the occasional intriguing request from a client.
The movement forms a core part of the design and aesthetics of the Steel Wheels. The finishing found on the manually-wound DB 2115V4 is of the highest quality, with the components showing a remarkable level of hand-finishing - from De Bethune's signature Côtes de Bethune found on the triangle-shaped bridge to the concentric graining and sharp, polished-bevels seen through the sapphire caseback. Unlike other DB28 models, the triangular bridge and parts of the dial are skeletonised on the Steel Wheels, revealing the gears underneath. The barrels and ratchet wheels are also open-worked, further exposing the inner mechanics. Through the two self-regulating barrels, the DB28 Steel Wheels achieves six days of power reserve.
To better protect its workings, the DB 2115V4 calibre also boasts a triple-parachute shock-absorbing system, which is unique to De Bethune calibres. The bridge of the triple parachute is secured by a spring-based system, protecting the heart of the movement. The various architectural elements are connected by three jewels, thereby absorbing shocks and ensuring precise re-positioning of the bridge after displacement. Bringing a touch of colour to the monochromatic design, the balance wheel is a blued titanium web, set with individual white gold masses. This design helps to achieve as much thermal stability as possible, with minimum aerodynamic drag.
Returning to the dial, we see that the grey chapter ring features spherical hour indices, made out of polished titanium, which provide an intuitive reference to read the time. Above this, the skeletonised hands build on the futuristic styling of the DB28, creating depth and preserving legibility. A spherical moon is subtly placed at six o’clock - two halves of metal comprise the sphere, both of them in contrasting shades of grey. With a design that speaks for itself, the De Bethune name is absent from the dial.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Unique Piece will be subject to 20% VAT