The Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen marked the first instance of the Glashütte brand including a luminous moonphase and date display. As such, the translucent sapphire was the natural choice of material for the dial – while it partially obscured the mechanics of the calibre behind a thin veil, it allowed light to pass through, charging the luminous material on these displays evenly. This meant that when the displays changed – be it the date or the moonphase – they would already be glowing and visible in the dark. The reference 139.035F was created in a limited series of 200 pieces. This particular example was first retailed in 2017 in Montego Bay, Jamaica.

In addition to the framed double windows for the date, the smoky sapphire dial includes apertures that accommodate the primary time display as well as the subsidiary seconds register. These registers are marginally recessed, furthering the visual depth that the sapphire dial creates. The primary register, the largest display on the dial, features a black chapter that has concentric rings engraved on it. The quarter chapter of Roman hours is printed in luminous material, with the other hours denoted by diamond markers that also glow in the dark. In between, the minutes are achieved with thin, printed batons. At the centre of the register is the beautiful moonphase display. Adorned with luminous material, both the large moon and the constellation of stars glow bright. Cased in a layer of sapphire, the soothing glow of the moonphase contrasts against the brighter luminous hours and minutes hands. The marginally overlapping seconds register has a similar layout, except that the minutes, at intervals of 10, are Arabic numerals. For contrast, the seconds alpha-style hand is painted white.

Printed in white, below the primary time-telling register is ‘Made in Germany’ mark while along the bottom edge of the sapphire dial the 72-hour power reserve is detailed. This reserve is expressed through an up-down register at 3 o’clock, with a graduated scale achieved with luminous material.

The sapphire dial is paired with a 41mm platinum case, a metal that is something of a rarity for A. Lange & Söhne, with the brand generally favouring white gold. The rounded bezel is high polished, as is the facet of the display caseback. The midcase is horizontally satinated, as is the squared pusher on the midcase at 10 o’clock. At 8 o’clock is a corrector for the moonphase display. The lugs, marginally stepped from the case, are high polished. It is fitted with an alligator-grained black leather strap secured by a substantial, signed platinum deployant clasp by specialist maker Brogioli.

Through the caseback is visible the manually wound calibre L095.4, a movement initially introduced in 2009. Crafted from German silver, it is beautifully decorated and mechanically robust. The main three-quarter plate wears striping while the baseplate is adorned with perlage. The fourth and escapement wheels are anchored by independent bridges, with the tip of the latter crafted from stainless steel and black polished. As is customary for the brand, the balance wheel is hand engraved in a floral while the swan-neck regulator atop it is black polished. The visible jewels wear gold chatons while the edges of the bridges are hand-bevelled and polished.

This Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen comes with its full set of box and warranty paperwork. In addition, it includes a pusher tool for the moonphase corrector. The reference 139.035F is at once a maximum iteration of the design codes that govern the Lange 1 while being one of the most delicate executions of the aesthetic.

Closer look

Condition

This A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks, though only on the very surface of the material, consistent with minimal wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement show no imperfections or signs of wear and have been well preserved. The hallmarks and engravings on both the caseback and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.