Founded by Maximilian Büsser nearly twenty years ago, in 2005, MB&F have become known for their innovative, conceptual watches made in small numbers and which seek to push the boundaries of how we see time. Their approach to watchmaking focusses on collaboration and bringing handcrafted methods to their futuristic ideas. The latter idea is an integral part of MB&F's Legacy Machine series, of which this LMX Steel and Brass example belongs.
This LMX bears a slightly different name, as it was made to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Legacy Machine in 2021. Limited to just 33 pieces, the LMX revisits the core concept first introduced in the LM1, highlighting and reframing many of the features that became crucial to the Legacy Machines' aesthetic. The Steel and Brass edition was the third to be introduced, drawing out the more interesting qualities of both metals used in the watch.
The dial of the LMX is three dimensional, with a distinct sense of depth thanks to its unusual arrangement of features, and underscoring MB&F's creation of kinetic sculptures. As usual, at the heart of things lies the large balance wheel, which was expanded to 13.4mm specifically for this example. Instead of being screwed down, the balance wheel is attached via inertial blocks, intended to provide more accuracy in regulating the movement. At noon, a hemispherical feature can be seen, demonstrating the 7-day power reserve, in addition to a weekday display on the opposite side. The crown can be adjusted to allow the wearer to view either side of the hemisphere more easily. Further highlighting the industrial aspects of the watch, we see two separate wheels that correspond to the smaller time-telling dials, rotating when the time is set.
These time-telling elements are set at an 50-degree angle, rendered in a lacquered white with black numerals and heat-blued hands. These also allow for two different timezones to be set, through the two crowns, respectively. The angle of this is especially impressive, as it makes use of a conical system that transfers energy from a horizontal to a vertical plane.
Overall, the white metal case and golden-toned, untreated brass dial is an unusual configuration for MB&F watches, leaning more towards a classical aesthetic. The delicate frosting found on the dial enhances the appearance of the metal, and is a nice touch against the sleekly polished parts found throughout. The high-polished steel case also features curved lugs, making the watch pleasantly wearable and a comfortable experience on the wrist, despite the watch's size.
The movement that powers this watch can be seen through the sapphire caseback, and mirrors the symmetry found on the dial. Three barrels are concentrated near the centre, and the movement is decorated with a sunburst Côte de Genève pattern, radiating outwards and naturally drawing the eye to the arrangement of parts. Black polishing can be found throughout, in addition to beautifully done anglage and circular graining across each component.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this MB&F LMX Steel & Brass will be subject to 20% VAT