It has two different engine-turned patterns on the light-grey, solid-silver two-tone dial. Each pattern reflects light differently, giving the dial a mixture of tones and fantastic depth. Applied Roman numerals and steel,
Breguet-style hands make up the front view, while the retrograde date arc at the centre of the dial is decoratively filled in blue, showing the days of the month.
Kari Voutilainen's newly designed case with more angular, sculpted lugs finish off this fantastic timepiece; showing both the watchmaker's uncompromising attention to detail and craftsmanship.
The retrograde date indication is displayed on a 240-degree arc, situated between 4 and 7 o’clock, connected to the sub-seconds. The date function is almost concealed, owing to its precise and neat integration. It’s advanced by pressing the crown, moving the pointer forward by one day, with each engagement. The retrograde date mechanism itself, enables the indicator of the
217QRS to slowly return from the 31st to the 1st day of the month, avoiding any possible inaccuracies or “bouncing”, which can occur with instantaneous retrograde mechanisms. The dial of this
217QRS is made from solid-silver and engine-turned by hand in the
Voutilainen workshop.
While inspiration for the
217QRS movement comes from the
Vingt-8, the retrograde date mechanism is entirely integrated within the
Calibre 28. The movement features
Voutilainen's direct impulse-escapement with two escape wheels. The exceptionally large, free-sprung balance beats at 18,000 vph, held in place by a long steel bridge with rounded arms. The 39 mm case is platinum, and features
Voutilainen's sculpted lugs, flaring outwards from the case.
On the reverse, the sapphire crystal exhibits the movement in full view, revealing the in-house
Cal. 28, manufactured from German silver and titanium. Through the combination of a free-sprung balance, with
Breguet over-coil and
Grossmann interior curve, and signature direct impulse escapement with two large escapement wheels, a high degree of engineering ingenuity is accomplished. One of the hallmarks of
Voutilainen as a manufacture is their superlative hand-finishing; with expert ruthenium-plated
German silver bridges, classically finished with
Cotes de Geneve and
perlage on the base plate, for this
QRS. The watch has a 65-hour power reserve.
This limited series,
217QRS piece comes as a full-set, with its original box and papers. The watch comes on our
La Rochelle grained calfskin strap, as well as its original black alligator strap from
Kari Voutilainen.
A Collected Man is the exclusively
approved reseller of pre-owned Voutilainen watches. Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.