The 222 is a rare example of a design that is firmly situated in an era of watchmaking, but also timeless in its appeal. When Vacheron Constantin tasked Jörg Hysek to design it, the heritage Swiss house was under siege from within the industry and outside of it. While the industry was facing the headwinds of a more modern technology, within Switzerland the many were undertaking a wholesale rethinking of what a luxury wristwatch should look like.

Released in 1977, a few years after the first stainless steel pieces with integrated bracelets appeared on the market taking it by storm, it nevertheless represented a total departure from the mould from which Vacheron Constantin created precious metal luxury dress watch up until then.

This midsize reference 46003 in evenly vertically brushed stainless steel, is wholly monochrome in its appearance. It’s finely brushed, silver dial is perfectly matched to the steel the case and integrated bracelet is forged from. Its understated appearance  belies its immense current popularity.  

The 34mm tonneau-shaped case features broad shoulders, furthering its presence on the wrist. The scalloped bezel, an elemental design cue, is architectural in its depth and in crisp shape in this particular example. It features a polished rim where it meets the crystal. The precisely chamfered edge of the lugs features polished facets that give way to slim, brushed midcase. The crown is well proportioned and signed with the Maltese cross. The same motif, this time in golden, is repeated on the bottom right side of the case.

The silver dial is minimal in terms of furniture. In between the applied hour markers, featuring tritium, is a black printed chapter of minutes. The tritium of the hour markers has aged to a fine, warm shade of cream, that matches the tritium in the baton-style hours and minutes hands. The date aperture at 3 o’clock, framed by a stainless-steel window, can be quickset.  

The now iconic bracelet design, despite its complex construction, feels almost seamless to the touch. It culminates in a single fold clasp with a folder over safety.

Underpinning this reference is the ultra-slim calibre 1124, a movement based on the JLC 899 that also has a date and centre-seconds. It features 33 working jewels, has been adjusted to five positions, and integrates an oscillating weight mounted on an unlubricated ceramic ball bearing, with one segment of the weight made out of 21-carat gold. The closed caseback is alternatingly brushed and polished, with simply the 222 signature engraved on it.

This example features a case and bracelet that are in exceptional condition, with all the chafering and brushing faithful to the condition it was first retailed in. It also comes with its original box as well as service paperwork.

Closer look

Condition

This Vacheron Constantin 222 is in excellent condition throughout. The case and bracelet show virtually no signs of wear retaining the correct finishing and strong proportions. The dial and hands are in very good condition, the tritium hour markers and hands have aged evenly to a warm hue. The engravings on the case back and bracelet are crisp and well defined. 

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.