Urban Jürgensen Reference 8, Platinum

The Urban Jürgensen name dates back to the late 18th century when the manufacture’s namesake, Urban Jürgensen (1776-1830), joined his father Jürgen Jürgensen, travelling from Cophenhagen to Neuchatel, to study watchmaking. There, the younger Jürgensen’s watchmaking was influenced by the works of masters such as Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, Abraham-Louis Breguet and John Arnold. Setting up part of his operation in Switzerland and the other half in his home country, he is credited with bringing watchmaking tradition to Denmark.

In 1985, more than a century and a half after the Jürgensen’s death, Peter Baumberger acquired the rights to the brand, and together with master English horologist Derek Pratt, and later help from a young Kari Voutilainen, set about carrying forward the legacy of elegant and complicated timepieces. The reborn brand’s emphasis on chronometry and movement aesthetics, is perfectly embodied in the Reference 8.

Made around the turn of the millennium, the watch was offered in yellow and rose gold as well as the platinum that this particular example’s 37mm case is crafted from. It rounded bezel, together with the case, gives it a distinctly classical, double-stepped countenance. The rounded midcase and caseback are pebble-like in their forms. The crown, which is slightly recessed into the midcase, is beautifully integrated while also perfectly ergonomic. The form of the short, teardrop-shaped lugs serve as a reminder of Voutilainen’s influences for when he set up his independent manufacture. In between the 19mm lugs, the watch comes on a tan, alligator-grained leather strap with a horse-shoe shaped pin buckle clasp signed on the underside in keeping with the overall restrained appearance of the piece.

Equally classical is the dial, with the printed blue chapter of minute plots and Roman hour markers with sauté piqué ring separating the two. In fact, this relief also delineates the inner section of the dial, which is adorned with clous de Paris guilloché. The subsidiary seconds register, which has a brushed rim with blue printed second plots, features a centre decorated with a basket weave pattern. While the observatoire hands in the Reference 8 often have a golden aperture end, the ones on this example are more uniform – they wear the same shade as the dial printing. The only aureate detail is the base of the hours and minutes hands, which are crafted in gold. Worth noting is the lack of a date complication, an option on offer. This would have been accommodated in the seconds register. However, its absence better represents the aesthetic era that inspired this watch.

This watch also benefits from an exhibition caseback, another option offered when the Reference 8 was part of Urban Jürgensen’s catalogue. Through this is visible the rich texture of the grain d’orge circulaire on the full gold winding rotor. This powers a calibre that is certified a chronometre by COSC. When adequately wound, the movement enjoys 60 hours of autonomy. The movement, which has a free-sprung balance, is adjusted to five position, with bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève and brand and technical details engraved in gold.

The Reference 8’s time-only aesthetic elegantly captures the early era of the brand’s aesthetic. In this understated configuration it is particularly appealing.

Closer look

Condition

This Urban Jürgensen Reference 8 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear and have been well preserved. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. The hallmarks on the caseback and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by Urban Jürgensen in March 2024 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.