From his workshop in Ipsach, on the eastern banks of the Bielersee, Thomas Prescher, who has been independent since 2002, has been working beside his partner, creating incredible single-, double- and triple-axis tourbillons as well as watches for his lines that include Nemo, Tempusvivendi and Perpetual Calendar “QP1”. In addition to his regular output, Prescher has always been receptive to special commissions centred around vintage calibres that clients would like to salvage. These are produced under his Desiderata offering.
 
This particular example was produced in 2018 and features a 38.5mm stainless-steel case that stands 12mm high, taking its form from cases found in the Tempusvivendi line. However, like almost every special Desiderata commission, this case was crafted expressly to fit the movement that spawned the idea – the Zenith calibre 135. The rounded bezel, high polished, meets a satinated midcase, while the marginally stepped bezel of the display caseback is also polished. The lugs, stepped from the case, and squared off, are brushed on top and in profile, with a polished facet. The fluted crown is substantial, aiding winding ergonomics.
 
The watch comes with a choice of dials that the watchmaker designed taking into account the classical predilections of the commissioning client. “I wanted to create enough elements to arrest the eye, but also have enough space to rest the eye,” Prescher told us. They both wear furniture set against a circular brushed silver base framed by a chemin de fer minute track. The more modern of the two features applied rose golden numerals at 12, 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock, with applied plots for the other indices. They are crafted and mirror polished by hand. At 12 o’clock is a curved plaque affixed by two screws. Engraved on it is the watchmaker’s last name.
 
The second dial is decidedly more classical, with a full chapter of applied golden Roman indices. Another visual distinction is that the curved plaque on this dial wears the watchmaker’s full name. Both dials wear recessed subsidiary seconds registers with a chapter of drilled minute plots. The seconds hand has an arrow-tip, with a prominent counterweight, and is heated to a brilliant blue, as are the alpha-style hours and minutes hands.
 
Visible through the display caseback is the 30mm wide calibre that formed the inspiration for the watch. The chronometre-grade vintage Zenith calibre 135 was the product of the efforts of movement designer Ephrem Jobin. Since its introduction in 1948, it won the chronometry prize at the Neuchatel Observatory every year between 1950 and 1954, and over the years has accumulated more than 200 precision timekeeping honours. At the heart of the charmingly simple architecture is an oversized balance wheel and barrel, that aid timekeeping precision and stable isochronism. The calibre, which features 19 jewels and beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour, wears Côtes de Genéve on its brass bridges. It has been fully serviced by Prescher.
 
Between the 20mm lugs, the watch wears a black alligator-style leather strap with a signed buckle, satinated on top, with polished details on the underside. The Desiderata project that yielded this unique watch represents a rare proposition even within independent watchmaking, dedicated to saving and restoring historically important calibres that may also be of sentimental value for clients. Owing to the intensive nature of such commissions, Prescher has noted that he will be taking on far fewer projects in the future.   

Closer look

Condition

This unique Thomas Prescher commission is in excellent overall condition. The case features only minor hairline superficial marks, while the two dials and handset are free from blemishes. The vintage, Zenith calibre 135 movement shows a few marks and signs of aging throughout, though was serviced by Thomas Prescher and keeps excellent time.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.