The Tank Louis Cartier is one of the most iconic shapes in watchmaking, famously inspired by the top view of World War I era Renault tanks. While the aesthetic is famously completed with a simple white dial with black Roman numerals, the heritage brand has lately invested effort in refreshing it.

Cased in yellow gold and measuring just under 34mm in length and 25.5mm across, it has a well-proportioned‚ presence on the wrist. The flanks of the case feature two screws on either side with the solid caseback held in place by eight more. The caseback wears vertical brushing, with engravings detailing the brand name, serial number, mechanical calibre as well as precious metal hallmarks. The crown, as is to be expected, wears a sapphire cabochon.

However, it is the dial that is most arresting. Employing an electromagnetic engraving technique relatively recent to it watchmaking manufacture, the brand recreates a much-loved geometric, Art Deco-inspired pattern that adorned the dials of some of its Must de Cartier watches from the 1980s. This technique produces a lacquer finish, with tunnel of sectors, each appearing as a different shade of green depending on how the light plays with it. It creates an almost magical, layered effect. Topping it is a printed quarter of oversized Roman numerals as well as the Cartier mark, all in the same shade of green.

Underpinning this is the manual wind calibre 1917 MC that beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. It offers 38 hours of autonomy.

The watch comes on a matching green‚alligator leather on a yellow gold tang buckle. It comes as a complete set with its box and warranty paperwork.

Closer look

Condition

This Cartier Tank Louis is in excellent condition throughout. The case shows virtually no signs of wear overall, the watch arrived factory-stickered and was removed for photography purposes. The dial, hands, and sapphire cabochon crown are free from any signs of imperfection. The hallmarks on the caseback and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man as well as the remaining duration of the manufacturer warranty from Cartier.