Since this introduction, over 60 years ago, the
Submariner has become so closely associated with
Rolex’s famous ‘Coronet’ logo, that the longstanding aspiration of owning a
Rolex watch, is often inextricably linked with that of owning a Submariner. Its iconic status and importance to the brand has lead to constant reinvention and modernisation.
The
reference 1680 (as seen in this example) was first introduced the late 1960s, and was the first
Submariner to feature a date function. The
reference 1680 was introduced over 10 years after the very first
Submariner (in 1953) and was the eventual successor to one of
Rolex’s longest serially produced references, the
5513. For over a decade, the word
'Submariner' was depicted in red script on the dial of the
1680, earning many earlier examples the
“single red” moniker. Over the years,
Rolex Submariners have been worn by a host of famous people, from
James Bond to
Steve McQueen, and thus, it is no surprise that the
1680 is seen by many as one of the model's quintessential references.
This vintage,
1680 “single red” Submariner from 1973, encapsulates this idea in the best possible way. It comes as a full-set, with its original inner and outer boxes (with ‘
1680’ sticker), punched guarantee paperwork, punched guarantee booklet, hang tags and accompanying booklets. The watch also comes on its
9315 folded-link
Oyster bracelet (
380 end-links), with matching clasp (
2 72) and divers' extension. This watch was previously sold by
Andrew Shear, of
Sheartime (you can see it in his archive
here).
The
MK4 dial of this
1680 is in exceptionally good condition, has a matte black finish, tritium index markers, with classic 'ROLEX’ and ‘OYSTER PERPETUAL’ – ‘SUBMARINER' – ‘660 ft = 200m’ text referenced on it. The
‘Submariner’ text is printed in red, consistent with
MK4 designation, while the original date-disc has ‘open’ 6s and 9s. The original tritium index plots and
‘Mercedes’ hands have aged to a creamy patina. It also has its original
Rolex crown and black, rotating bezel, with sixty-minute graduation and original pearl insert. On the case-back, the watch is personalised with the engraving '
Kurt Brandenburg'. Overall, this watch is excellently preserved, which only adds to its appeal.
Inside the watch, it houses
Rolex’s Calibre 1570/5 bi-directional, self-winding movement. The mechanism features a lever escapement, 26 jewels, mono-metallic balance and a KIF shock-absorber, beating at a rate of 19,800 A/h, with a power-reserve of 42 hours.
The evolution of the
Rolex Submariner has inspired some of history’s most important and reliable tool watches, surviving the harshest of conditions. There aren’t many mechanical timepieces that have contributed more to the advancement of enduring design, nor any that more clearly defined
Rolex’s reputation for excellence. Many have tried to replicate its success, but no manufacturer since has consistently produced watches able to withstand everyday wear as well as a
Rolex, owing much of their success to a unique market niche that the
‘Oyster’ case helped define.
This watch is accompanied by its original
Rolex inner and outer boxes (with ‘
1680’ sticker), punched guarantee paperwork, punched guarantee booklet (dated 1973), hang tags, accompanying booklets. It also comes with a service guarantee from
Swedish-based Authorised Distributor '
Rob. Engström AB', from 2011.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
