Stepan Sarpaneva began his journey as a watchmaker in 1989, when he enrolled in the Finnish School of Watchmaking (Kelloseppäkoulu). After completing his studies there in 1992, he went on to study at the WOSTEP program in Switzerland, before embarking on a career that led him to work with brands such as Piaget, Parmigiani, Christophe Claret and Vianney Halter, which helped shape his skills and vision.

Sarpaneva spent time in restoration, including at Parmigiani, alongside Kari Voutilainen. As he put it himself, "I had to really learn the history of watchmaking with Kari, because we were working on things like minute repeaters and perpetual calendars, making parts for them."

Sarpaneva has been designing his own watches as far back as 1999. These were mainly one-off pieces, which he created for himself. In fact, a Japanese retailer once spotted one on his wrist and asked if he could possibly order one. As he remembers, "I made something for him and then a few pieces here and there for my friends. It grew very organically like that." He took his first step towards independence in 2003, returning to Finland to start Sarpaneva Watches. This was still a fairly early time to be an independent watchmaker and over the past 20 years, Sarpaneva's distinct aesthetic has only grown and developed. 

His designs are inspired by Finnish landscapes and concepts, alongside the jewellery and designs of the family name in Pentti and Timo Sarpaneva. They also heavily feature industrial themes such as engineering and machinery. A pioneer of his style, Sarpaneva introduced an experimental perspective to his horological creations, a feat made all the more impressive by the fact that he is located quite a distance from Switzerland, resulting in limited pieces of each series and more of his work being done by hand. 

The Korona has become the most recognisable execution of Stepan Sarpaneva’s watchmaking vision. The model has undergone several iterations throughout its lifetime, with several variations within the K3 Northern Stars series itself. This example is part of a very limited release of just 10 pieces, featuring a stainless steel case and blue accents. These were sold through the Swiss retailer Uhrsachen.

The dial of this K3 Northern Stars eschews the typical grille arrangement, and Sarpaneva's signature moon faces in white-gold are nestled amidst a brushed grey DLC-coated surface that mirrors the sky above, with laser-cut stars scattered throughout. The placement of each star mirrors the Ursa Minor ("Little Bear"), a constellation visible year-round in the Northern hemisphere. The hours are represented by cut-outs in the style of Sarpaneva's usual grille design, accented with a brushed blue outline inside and on the outer edges of each marker. Meanwhile, the hands are part of Sarpaneva's older style, made by hand and featuring a curved shaft and skeletonised tips in a shape of a stylised triangle.

The moonphase aperture is on the more minimalistic side here, portrayed by a simple brushed blue circle at the typical 6 o'clock placement. The large moonphase is an enigmatic detail that is a repeated motif throughout nearly all of Sarpaneva pieces. This example features two on the dial, allowing the wearer to see the current moonphase as well as the approaching phases. Notably, the moonphase can be adjusted through the crown and not through a pusher, as is typical of other watches. The distinctive moons are inspired by those seen in antique watchmaking, stylised with the watchmaker’s own contemporary take.

The case is crafted from stainless steel, and the angular yet subdued scalloped edges of the case are particularly eye-catching, putting one in mind of a gear – and is yet another nod to the watchmaker's interest in more industrial aesthetics. The movement is visible through the caseback and the grille-style covering – Sarpaneva favoured the use of Soprod’s self-winding A10, extensively modified to suit his requirements for each piece. This example features a handmade white gold rotor with another enigmatic moon in white gold.

Closer look

Condition

This Sarpaneva Korona K3 Northern Stars is in excellent condition. The case shows very little signs of wear, other than a few very light scratches on the tops of the lugs and superficial marks on the polished case sides.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.