The first
Royal Oak to feature a perpetual calendar complication was released in 1983, as the reference
5554 (later designated the
ref. 25554). Following this, the
ref. 25654 was introduced (seen in this example), featuring the same refined aesthetic. As a result of the watch’s new-fashioned approach, only 800 examples of the
ref. 25654 were produced (between 1983-98) - limited to just 272, in steel. In recent years, the
Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel has since been the canvas on which
Audemars Piguet have experimented and redefined its perpetual calendars, introducing various unique interpretations.
This rare, steel,
ref. 25654ST example features a lightly-textured, silver dial with black indicators and blued subsidiary hands. The layout of the dial includes all the traditional indications of a perpetual calendar: day, date, astronomical moon (with graduation for moon age) and month.
The steel case and bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, beveled and polished edges - striking the perfect balance between utilitarian function and elegant design. The polished screws, bezel and case edges fantastically-contrast with the brushed surface of the case and bracelet. At 39mm in diameter, and only 9.3mm thick, this
Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel case is a beautiful twist of perspectives and size. On the reverse, the outer-case back correctly displays the unique serial number (
C-28XXX), along with its sequential case number (
2XX). The
Ref. 25654ST is housed in a 39mm case (like the
5402 'Jumbo’) - succeeded in 2015 by the latest generation of 41mm perpetual calendars.
This
Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel is powered by the
AP caliber
2120/2800, derived from
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin
JLC 920 calibre movement. The caliber
2120 was an initial project of
Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by
Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by
Audemars Piguet,
Patek Philippe and
Vacheron Constantin.
The ultra-thin automatic
2120/2800 calibre features 38 working jewels,
Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The
AP calibre
2120 remains the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movement in the world, considered by many as one of the most technically refined wrist-watch movements ever made.
The watch comes with an Extract from the Archives (dated April 1988).
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
