The origins of the
Cosmograph begin in 1963, with the
reference 6239. Designed as the ultimate tool watch for endurance racing drivers, the
Daytona, featured clean styling, with excellent resistance to both shock and moisture. The original concept was
‘The Rolex LeMans’, featured in early
Rolex advertisements. In 1964,
Rolex later introduced the
“Daytona” signature to the
Cosmograph dial, signifying the brand’s sponsorship of the annual
24 Hours of Daytona race, held in Daytona Beach, Florida. The signature was first placed at 12 o’clock, under the word
“Cosmograph”.
In 1988,
Rolex introduced the the first generation of automatic
Daytonas, with the
ref. 16520 in steel and th
e ref. 16528 in yellow gold. Housing the
Zenith-based caliber
4030, the new generation featured a larger case and was fitted with a sapphire crystal. The new caliber was based on
Zenith’s iconic
El Primero caliber, which was first introduced in 1969, amid the race between several manufacturer’s to design the first ever automatic chronograph movement.
After
Zenith was sold to
Zenith Electronics during the quartz crisis, the company discontinued production of mechanical movements. However, it is believed that Charles Vermot, a senior engineer at the factory where the
El Primero was manufactured, secretly disassembled the tooling for the
El Primero over a period of months, and stored it in the factory attic after the closure had been announced. Years later, when
Rolex expressed an interest in using the
El Primero to power a new generation of
Daytonas, Vermot showed company leaders where he had saved the tooling and production notes. Satisfied the company could meet its needs,
Rolex awarded the ten-year contract to
Zenith.
The
ref. 16528 offered here has a
Mark III dial, which is consistent with the watch’s 1991 year of production. The sub-dial at six o’clock features an
‘inverted 6’ variation, where the number six is inverted and appears as a nine, a detail which appeared on watches produced as late as 1994-5. The dial also features text on 5 lines, with the words
“OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED” reappearing after having disappeared on the earlier
Mark II dial. This dial configuration is among the rarer ones, with most watches in this reference featuring a
Mark IV dial which does not feature the ‘inverted 6’. The black dial on this particular example, beyond the appealing contrast and stark visual presence it gives the watch, also enhances its rarity.
The watch also features the correct
Mark III bezel, where the phrase
“UNITS PER HOUR" is located at the one o'clock position and
240 is noted, whereas
225 and
250 are missing.
It is no surprise that the the
Zenith Daytona has developed a following in recent years. It is possibly one of the last production
Rolex watches to feature a number of significant variations to the dial and bezels. It could be argued it marks the last generation of
Daytona’s before
Rolex evolved into its more polished, commercial incarnation, where these small quirky details and variations disappeared. The minutiae which a lay person may not notice or care about, are extremely appealing to collectors and form the very life blood of their hobby.
This watch is a truly fantastic example of a ref.
16528, featuring a seemingly unpolished case with thick lugs and crisp hallmarks. The case shows minimal signs of wear and the bracelet is preserved in excellent condition, with minimal stretch throughout. Moreover, the case back features the original factory
Rolex sticker, an appealing feature for any collector.
The watch is accompanied by its original box and papers.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
