From Patek Philippe to AKRIVIA
Admired by none other than Philippe Dufour and Kari Voutilainen, Rexhep is a watchmaker who has manifested precocious talent from an early age. Having started his horological career at the tender age of fourteen, with an apprenticeship at Patek Philippe, specialising in tourbillons, Rexhep Rexhepi soon ventured out on his own. At AKRIVIA, his watches were initially known for their futuristic aesthetic and masterfully decorated symmetrical movements. The Chronomètre Contemporain is the first watch featuring paired-back aesthetics, and bearing the "Rexhep Rexhepi" name on the dial.
The concept
The Chronomètre Contemporain is a time-only watch displaying hours, minutes and small seconds, and a Grand Feu enamel dial. This example shows the platinum case with a pristine white dial, displaying a subtle sheen (the other version features a rose gold case with a black enamel dial). The distinctive layout of the dial incorporates Art Deco-inspired asymmetrical lines in blue, segmenting the classical Roman numerals in an alternating fashion. The dial is built on two levels, with the sub-seconds placed in a recessed counter. The latter is encircled by a gilded rim - a subtle, yet impactful detail, added from the initial prototype. Overall, the dial design is simple yet distinctive, with a unique aesthetic identity.
The movement
The extraordinary quality of the movement of the Chronomètre Contemporain will come as no surprise to those familiar with AKRIVIA’s work. The calibre RR-01 ("RR" standing for "Rexhep Rexhepi") features an unusual symmetrical construction, which is visually appealing in its simplicity, yet takes mastery to implement. Developed, decorated and assembled entirely in-house, the movement displays the high-watchmaking skills that Rexhep and his team are known for, requiring countless sharply finished internal angles on the bridges and plates.
It incorporates a hacking-second and zero-reset mechanism, where the small seconds' hand stops and resets to zero when the winding crown is pulled out; a rare ‘mini-complication’ in wristwatches, allowing for even more precise setting of the time. This is achieved using a heart-shaped cam, similar to the resetting mechanism in chronographs, beneath the small-seconds hand. The movement also features a single barrel holding 100 hours of power reserve, which rotates on a central jeweled steel bridge in a form typically used for a tourbillon carriage.
The finishing on the movement is superb, which is to be expected from Rexhep and his team. The anglage is in rounded, bombé style, requiring additional skill that can only be achieved by hand, used on both visible and non-visible parts of the movement. Following the highest standards of Genevan watchmaking, this is also shown in the deep, clear Côtes de Genève, decorating the movement plates. The black-polishing of certain parts, notably the cap for the balance cock, is equally impressive. Subtle details, such as the perlage, or spotting, on the base plate are also masterfully executed, resulting in a design and finish which is classic, yet abundantly rich in detail.
The case
The Chronomètre Contemporain platinum case measures 38mm in diameter and is 9.5mm thick, with an elegant concave bezel and back. A feature taken from AKRIVIA’s original case design, the bezel and back flare outwards at 6 and 12 o’clock. As for the lugs, they are lengthy and curved downwards, taking inspiration from the arched lugs of 1950s Patek Philippe cases made by Emile Vichet.
The Set
This brand-new Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain, belonging to the first batch of pieces ever delivered, comes as a complete set, with box and papers, and is fitted with our Capri nubuck strap, as well as the original AKRIVIA strap from the factory. It is also accompanied by a Chronometer Certificate from the Besançon Observatory, a once time-honoured process, which is now only reserved for the finest chronometer watches.
A Collected Man is proud to be one of the few authorised retailers for AKRIVIA. Whilst all our current allocation of Chronomètre Contemporains have been pre-sold, if you would like to be notified about future projects, please let us know your interest.
The price is exclusive of 20% EU-wide VAT.
