Urban Jürgensen has a rich history that goes back to the late 18th century. The manufacture’s namesake, Urban Jürgensen (1776-1830), along with his father Jürgen Jürgensen, have long been credited with introducing the watch industry to Denmark. Shortly after the birth of his son Urban in 1776, the senior Jürgensen moved to Le Locle in Switzerland to work with Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, laying the foundations for a Danish-Swiss connection which persevered well into the late 20th century.
In more recent history, Peter Baumberger acquired the brand in 1976 and together with master English watchmaker Derek Pratt set about bringing the Urban Jürgensen name – and the legacy of elegant and complicated timepieces it conjures – to the modern era. Pratt of course is one of the most accomplished watchmakers of the 20th century and was a long-time collaborator of the late Dr George Daniels. Also worth noting is the contribution of a young Kari Voutilainen to the Urban Jürgensen brand during these early years. It is fitting that Voutilainen is the current chief executive officer charged with reviving the historic brand.
Starting in 1986, Urban Jürgensen produced the Reference 2 in a classical 38mm case and powered by the Frédéric Piguet calibre 71, topped with a perpetual calendar module. It was significant as the first Urban Jürgensen reference to feature a perpetual calendar. The observatoire hands – that would become a design mainstay – were also first employed in the Reference 2. The dial is a canvas for Pratt’s skill with hand-turned guilloché, featuring two different patterns.
While around 175 examples of the Reference 2 are believed to have been produced – with 50 examples in platinum and almost all of the rest in yellow and rose gold – white gold was available exclusively by special order. The brand has confirmed that this watch is from 1989.
The white gold case is almost perfectly rounded, with this uninterrupted form extending to the stepped bezel. The closed, circular brushed caseback also meets the midcase in a similarly stepped fashion. The knurled crown is topped with the brand mark. Three sunken correctors on the midcase help manipulate the calendar functions. The lugs, with their teardrop profile, are soldered to the midcase. They are fitted with a black, alligator-grained leather strap with contrast blue stitching. The strap is secured by a simple, signed white gold pin buckle.
A thin chapter of minutes is separated from the Roman hours by a sauté piqué rim. Both graduated chapters are achieved on satinated rims, as is the chapter for the subsidiary date register. The hour chapter is interrupted by the day and month display windows as well as the date complication. On the northern half of the dial, lining the semi-circular brand mark, lies the moonphase display. Set on a polished steel disc, heated till blue, are the shimmering gold-filled cut outs of the moon and stars.
The central portion features hobnail engine turning applied by Pratt using hand tools. For visual distinction, the watchmaker employs a basket weave pattern inside the subsidiary date register, with this decoration repeated on the partial covering of the moonphase display. The resulting effect is classical and refined.
Under the closed caseback lies the well decorated Calibre 71. The watch comes with a wooden inner box lined with ostrich leather as well as the outer box and warranty and instruction paperwork. Along with the set is a copy of The Jurgensen Dynasty by John M. R. Knudsen that chronicles the brand’s rich history.
This Reference 2 holds within its tidy proportions many details that make it important within the realm of Urban Jürgensen under Baumberger and Pratt. This example, made by special order in white gold, is all the more special.