Inspired From the Past
In 1875, Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet founded the Swiss watch manufacturing company Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus, Vallée de Joux. In 1955, the brand began production of its first series of perpetual calendar wristwatches to feature a leap year indication. A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established, Audemars Piguet continued to produce a variety of high-quality perpetual calendars throughout the late 1970s to the early 2000s, considered some of the most impressive of the modern era.
This Quantième Perpetuel 25853OR forms part of the Edward Piguet collection, named after one of the two founding fathers of the manufacture. The aesthetic of the collection was based on a unique, historic tank design from Audemars Piguet from the mid-1920s. The overall collection is distinguished by its elegantly curved rectangular cases, subtly reminiscent of understated Art Deco sophistication. Symmetrical, geometrical and elongated, this specific piece looks back to early 20th-century design. This piece comes from a limited edition of 50 pieces, as confirmed by the Extract from the Archives.
A Classic Design
This Quantième Perpetuel 25853OR is sized at a contemporary 45mm x 27mm, lug to lug, and has a distinctive rectangular case. The elongated lugs flank the case on either side, in a straight, smooth line from one end of the watch to the other. The overall finishing of the case, from the bezel to the profile of the lugs, is relatively rounded, giving the watch a softer appearance overall. On the reverse, the caseback features hallmarks and finely-engraved markings.
The dial integrates the traditional layout for a perpetual calendar, though subtly reworked for its rectangular shape. The sub-dial at 3 o'clock shows the date, in a noticeably recessed sub-register, giving depth to the otherwise smooth silver dial. In a similar fashion, the days of the month are placed at 9 o'clock, with the months of the year at 12. The moon-phase is placed at six o'clock, with graduation for moon age above. The depth of the sub-dials gives the watch an even more distinctive appearance on the wrist.
The silver dial is further accented by stylistic Art Deco numerals, which are particularly charismatic. The copper toned minute track and surrounding for the various subdials also brings an added touch of colour. The sub-dial hands are made out of blued steel.
The Movement
This Quantième Perpetuel 25853OR is powered by the automatic winding calibre 2141/2806. The base movement, developed in conjunction with ébauche maker Jaeger LeCoultre, was first developed in 1946, remaining in production for half a century. On top of it, Audemars Piguet added their 2805 QP perpetual calendar module, giving the movement a total thickness of only 3.19mm. The movement is beautifully finished, with hand engraving on various surfaces.
The Set
This 25853OR is accompanied by its outer box, inner leather winding box, instruction manual and an Extract from the Archives (which confirms production in 1998). The watch was fully serviced by Audemars Piguet in July 2020, and comes with its servicing paperwork and box. The watch is fitted on our Stockholm grained leather strap, also accompanied by its original rose gold tang buckle.
Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.
