IWC Portuguese "Jubilee", Steel

The Portuguese

Founded by Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868, IWC first set down roots in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. Jones was initially from Boston and intended to combine modern American technologies with Swiss craftsmanship and skill. Since then, IWC is perhaps best known for the Mark XI, a pilot’s watch used by the RAF during WWII and which housed the celebrated calibre 89, invented by Albert Pellaton. Despite their military connections, IWC are also known for their dress watches and complications, such as with the perpetual calendar module developed by Kurt Klaus in 1985.

The name “Portuguese”, or “Portugieser” in German, refers to the watch’s connection to two Portuguese gentlemen in the 1930s, businessmen who commissioned the creation of a large, stainless steel wristwatch that was as precise as a marine chronometer. IWC took up the challenge, taking their smallest pocket watch movement and housing it in a steel case. Typical design characteristics of this series include a silvered dial, feuille-shaped hands, and embossed Arabic numerals.

The revival of the piece dates to the 1990s, when, according to Kurt Klaus, a customer came into the atelier wearing a Portuguese reference 325. After discussing the watch with him, the idea to revive the reference was born. This then transformed into an entire line dedicated to the Portuguese’s legacy.

A Classic Design

Created in honour of the 125th anniversary of IWC in 1993, this reference 5441 is also nicknamed the “Jubilee”. Only 1,000 pieces of this watch were produced in steel, all of which were individually numbered. This piece was a faithful tribute to the very first Portuguese pieces, from the ‘30s and ‘40s. The oversized 42mm case is made from stainless steel, highlighting the model’s utilitarian origins.

The dial is a creamy white that has developed a subtle patina over the years, with applied Arabic numerals and hands that are rendered in gold, providing a vintage appearance and which complement the dial’s colour scheme. The IWC signature can be found just below the 12 o’clock marker, in a cursive font, with “International Watch Co” entirely spelt out. A dotted minute track runs around the outermost section of the dial. A seconds sub-dial is located in place of the 6 o’clock marker in silver, featuring a guilloche pattern of radiating concentric circles.

The Movement

The sapphire caseback allows for the beautifully finished calibre 9828 to be seen. The movement was produced between 1993 and 1997, and is based on IWC’s calibre 98, a pocket watch movement. The movement is decorated with Côtes de Genève and engraved with “International Watch Co. – 1868 – 1993 – Switzerland” on the bridge, with the words filled in gold. It is fitted with 19 jewels and makes use of a balance with a shock resistance.

The Set

This IWC Portuguese Jubilee is accompanied by its outer box, inner wooden box, International Guarantee card (confirming sale in 1994) and Guarantee booklet. The inner wooden box has been damaged over time, with one portion having detached from the other and the cushion begun to fray.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this IWC Portuguese "Jubilee" watch will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This IWC Portuguese “Jubilee” is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks consistent with light wear over time. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.