Patek Philippe has a long relationship with the perpetual calendar, given that they were the first to implement this mechanism in 1925, and were also the first to serially produce a perpetual calendar in the form of the famous reference 1518 in 1940. Continually getting ahead of the curve, Patek Philippe were also the first to create a retrograde perpetual calendar in 1937.
Since its inception, the perpetual calendar has been an enduring presence within the Patek Philippe line-up, and has even contributed to the rebirth of mechanical watchmaking during the ‘70s Quartz Crisis and subsequent economic downturn, with the automatic Ref. 3940. Alongside its sister reference, the 3970, the model essentially kick-started the serial production of complicated Patek Philippe watches. Prior to this, perpetual calendars were extremely scarce, and these perpetual calendars used ultra-thin movements to create a slim profile - one that can still be seen today in this 5050G.
Time is a Line, Not a Circle
Introduced in 1993, the Ref. 5050G was initially created in yellow gold only, then later in white-gold, rose-gold, and platinum in 1995. Following the success of this first series, Patek Philippe created a second series, distinguished by applied index numerals and the addition of "Automatic" near the bottom of the moonphase dial.
The Ref. 5050G is distinguished by the fact that it is a “retrograde” perpetual calendar, which means that rather than moving in a circular motion around a sub-dial, like in many typical perpetual calendars, the hand on a retrograde dial moves back to the beginning of the line.
A retrograde dial is incredibly difficult to make, as the mechanism requires a significant amount of energy to “reset” from one end of the watch back to its initial position. These retrograde dials are implemented to save space, and, in the case of this Ref. 5050G, provides the added bonus of being aesthetically pleasing with their clean, simple lines.
The Design
In comparison to the customary three sub-dials found on other Patek Philippe perpetual calendars, this Ref. 5050G has a relatively minimalistic dial, composed of a day and month aperture placed at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively, a date display in the form of an arc near the center of the dial - in Arabic numerals - and a moonphase sub-dial. Above the Patek Philippe logo also sits a small leap year aperture, with subtle use of Roman numerals, displaying which of the four years the date is currently set.
The dial of this Ref. 5050G is silvered, with applied indexes and recessed minute markers near the outer section of the dial. Both the hands and the indexes are polished silver, contrasting with the calendar and sweeping central seconds hands, which are both in dark grey, for ease of legibility. The moonphase sub-dial features a silvered moon and scattered stars against a monochromatic grey backdrop, bringing a uniformity to the dial. The crown bears the familiar emblem of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross.
Despite its slim profile and somewhat traditional 35mm Calatrava case, this ref. 5050G wears larger than its dimensions would suggest, thanks to the elongated lugs and expansive, uniform dial. Housed in white-gold and featuring a decidedly pared-back, monochromatic colour scheme, it is perhaps considered one of the more versatile configurations of the reference, attuned to contemporary tastes.
The Movement
This Ref. 5050G is powered by a full-rotor calibre 315 S QR as opposed to the calibre 240, which powers many of Patek Philippe’s other perpetual calendars. A sapphire caseback displays the beautifully finished movement, with fine Geneva stripes, as well as exquisite chamfering on all angles.
The movement is fitted with 29 jewels, has a 48-hour power reserve, and bears the Geneva Seal, a mark of excellence given only to watches with the highest quality by the city of Geneva, and which was first established in 1886.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5050G will be subject to 20% VAT. Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.
