This is one of the examples of Pascal Coyon’s primary attempt at creating a highly finished chronometre. Featuring the calibre 1900, a thoroughly upgraded and hand-finished iteration of a Unitas pocket watch ébauche, it is paired with a 41mm stainless steel case and a white lacquer dial. This iteration of the calibre, in a rose gold finish, was made in a series of 20 pieces. It comes with chronometre certification from the Besançon observatory.
Movement finishing is part science and part art, mixed in with a dash of superstition.
Few people have mastered the necessary techniques to finish parts by hand to an outstanding quality, and there exists a significant difference in the quality of finishing across the board. While it is undeniably a pleasure to look at, beneath the surface lies hard work and a significant amount of trial and error, and evidence of the watchmaker’s very personal approach. As a general rule, a vast chasm lies between the level of finishing one will see in commercial and hand-finished timepieces.
For certain brands and many independent watchmakers, movement finishing has become another mode of artistic expression. The surface of the movement is transformed into a canvas for experimentation, or used as a way to pay tribute to tradition, or tie together the watchmaker’s design philosophies.
There are a few machines that are also staples in the workshop for movement finishing, such as lathes, hand-drills, and files, but a great degree of specificity exists with regard to each watchmaker’s preferred methodology, so there isn’t a universal list of tools that apply in every situation.
Anglage, also known as chamfering or bevelling, involves creating a 45-degree angle on the part, resulting in the clean and sleek edges that you see throughout the movement. These edges catch the light, allowing each component to seem more ‘alive’. Traditionally, these edges are polished with the same technique that we have described above, with wood and a stone paste. Today, some parts arrive ‘pre-angled’, but the final touches and real quality are still derived from the watchmaker’s personal touch.
Matte finish, while the opposite of polished in terms of effect, stems from a similar technique. The matte texture absorbs rather than reflects light, giving it a subtle appearance that can be used in contrast with polished surfaces or throughout the movement to create a futuristic, sleek character.
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